Jesse Jenkins

Brown patch/Large patch fungus and Take-all Root Rot (TARR) are two unwelcome Fall and Winter visitors to our South Texas lawns. Cool nighttime temperatures and moisture on the grass from rain, dew, or excessive watering frequency are the two main factors promoting these diseases. Large patch is relatively easy to diagnose visually if you are familiar with the symptoms. TARR has more subtle and varying symptoms and requires 60x or greater magnification to positively ID. Large patch is an unsightly annoyance for Fall and Winter, but damaged grass will regrow in Spring. TARR does not show much damage while the disease is spreading over Winter, but when hot temperatures arrive in Summer, the weakened roots and runners are unable to support the water requirements of the infected areas, and they decline or die.

There is no “curing” or eliminating these diseases, but you can attempt to prevent them, or manage them, by various means. Culturally, you should “goldilocks” your lawn: not too much water, not too little, but just right. Water deeply when needed to avoid drought stress but keep the frequency of application to a minimum. Mow as often as needed. Do not let grass grow too tall, but do not cut it too short. Fertilize according to recommended timing and quantity, not too much or too little. If you see a fungus damaged area, mow it last to minimize spreading into healthy areas. Keep mower blades sharp, so grass is cleanly sliced rather than ripped with slower-healing ragged edges. Any stresses make the lawn more vulnerable to infection by a harmful fungus.

We have fungicides that can help prevent or suppress harmful fungus, but keep in mind that there are also beneficial fungal organisms that recycle dead organic matter into plant nutrients and help prevent thatch. So excessive fungicide use, like most excesses, can cause new problems. My personal recommendation is to let large patch fungus run its course, as it does no permanent damage, just temporary unsightliness. But I recommend topdressing TARR infected lawns with peat moss, to control (can’t eliminate) the disease, as the damage is permanent. Best is for you to bring in some samples (still alive but with symptoms) and photos for us to look at, and offer to you various courses of action, for you to choose whatever approach you are most comfortable with.

-James

We’re lucky in South Texas to be able to add citrus trees to our gardens with great success. Lemons, limes, oranges, grapefruit, kumquats, and more thrive here and produce lots of fruit with the right care – if you feed them, they feed you! Now’s the time. Here’s our recommended method.

We love organic CitrusTone by Espoma. It contains all the essential nutrients plus beneficial microbes that colonize in the root system and create stronger roots and a healthier plant overall. Sort of like eating healthy AND taking vitamins.

Citrus Feeding Schedule

Late Winter January/February: Pre-bloom application will enhance flowering.
Late Spring May/June: Post-bloom application will encourage better fruit set.
Fall September/October: This will ensure overall nutrient needs are met.

How Much?

Citrus trees are heavy feeders – they need quite a bit of food to produce fruit.

Citrus Tree Height	Amount of CitrusTone (using 4lb bag)
Up to 3 ft	2 lbs. (1/2 bag)
3-6 ft.	4 lbs. (1 bag)
7-9 ft.	6 lbs. (1.5 bags)
9+ ft.	8 lbs. (2 bags)

Pro Tips

Spread fertilizer at the drip line. ‘Drip line’ means the outer edge of the branches where water drips off when it rains. Don’t use fertilizer within 6” of the trunk. Spread evenly at the drip line, then water it in thoroughly.

Remove blooms for the first 2 years. Young citrus trees need to put their energy into growing roots and branches instead of producing fruit. This means once you start seeing blooms, be sure to pluck them off. This will prevent fruiting. Do this for the first 2 seasons, then your tree will be ready to sustain the weight of the fruit and the energy required to produce it.

For citrus trees in pots, use 1 teaspoon per 4″ of pot diameter. Double for pots over 12″. Feed about every 60 days late Winter to Fall.

Plant fertilizers are much like food for us, the healthier the meal, the greater benefits.

That’s why we love organic Espoma plant foods. We use them in our own gardens and recommend them to customers all the time – they work! Each “Tone” (Plant-Tone, Citrus-Tone, Bio-Tone) product is a complex blend of long-lasting natural ingredients fueled by beneficial microbes. These natural organic granules break down slowly for a steady continuous feeding. They are naturally low in salts, so they won’t burn your plants, and they add organic matter back into the soil to build better soil health. Bottom line… you get a beautiful healthy garden that’s also safer for our environment.

Bio-Tone is the premium plant starter to use when putting in any new plants. It promotes root growth for stronger plants as they grow.
Plant-Tone is the go-to for an all-purpose food for flowers, veggies, potted plants and landscapes.
Citrus-Tone is superior for all citrus and fruiting trees & shrubs.
Azalea-Tone is specific to plants the need a more acidic soil than we have in the Coastal Bend. Use this on plants like Azaleas, Camellias, Gardenias, & Magnolias.

We also love and appreciate Espoma’s commitment to the environment. They are a minimal waste manufacturing facility that operates 100% on solar power! They utilize a vast array of renewable and sustainable ingredients. There are never any sludges or fillers and no hazardous or toxic ingredients, making it safe for people, pets, and our planet.

-Debbie

They’re coming – weeds! Due to our relatively warm Winter and recent rains, weeds are sprouting earlier than usual. Control them now before they get out of hand – here’s how.

Weeds in Lawns

Start simple instead of going directly to battle mode. If your lawn is stressed, think about using a good organic like Nature’s Blend compost to give the grass a boost before doing any weed control. Healthy grass will prevent weeds on its own and using chemicals can have negative effects on the quality of the underlying soil.

If you have a chronic weed issue and need to use a chemical, right now (late Jan/early Feb) is your last chance to use a pre-emergent weed control. We recommend spreading Bonide Weed & Crabgrass Preventer. If you’re already seeing some weeds, you can spread Weed Beater Complete which kills existing weeds and helps stop new ones from sprouting.

Once its consistently warmer and sunnier, you can use hose-end Weed b Gon Spray to spray your entire lawn for weeds. Be sure to check the forecast to see if we are sunny for 4-5 days with no rain and don’t water or run your irrigation system before you spray.

Wait for the right time to fertilize. Grass has just started to come out of Winter dormancy, and as we continue to get warmer, it will grow quicker. Once your lawn is growing and you’re mowing about once every 1-2 weeks, you know it’s time to fertilize – wait until then! If you fertilize too early, your grass doesn’t get the full benefit.

Weeds in Garden and Landscape Beds

Controlling weeds in beds is simple if you keep up with it. Most weeds are smothered by keeping a good layer of mulch (2-3”) in your beds. Mulch also helps retain moisture and adds organic material to the soil as it breaks down. If you see a large weed – don’t spray, just pull it! Patrolling your garden beds and pulling weeds is therapeutic and great exercise. Be sure to get the root.

If you need to spray for weeds, use horticultural 20% vinegar or the new organic Ortho GroundClear. Both are very effective against small weeds before they spread, which means you should inspect and apply frequently (weekly). You can also use these to spot-treat for weeds in your lawn. Spray directly on the weed, wait a few hours, then pull up the dead weed – nice and easy.

You can grow food just about anywhere in just about any container! Join James Gill as he discusses the benefits of container gardening and demonstrates how to get the best harvest. We’re very excited to present this video in collaboration with Grow Local South Texas.

Over the next few weeks, we will be addressing the freeze damage to plants which everyone has suffered. We are working on a video giving easy to follow instructions about what to prune and how.

It is not critical, and in fact, may be too early, to start most pruning immediately. If you have palm leaves hanging down, you may prune them as soon as this last freeze (hopefully) passes. Gingers, which look blowtorched, may be cut to 18″ tall this weekend if desired. Blackened, wilted herbaceous plants like Mexican petunia (Ruellia) and shrimp plant can be cut close to the ground. But woody shrubs like ixora and plumbago, small trees like citrus, and sad looking philodendrons should be left alone another week until we can more closely determine the level of damage, and therefore where to prune.

Watch for us to address these recovery issues here in the Garden News and on social media. Email us at info@gillnursery or message us on Facebook and Instagram with your related questions, so our upcoming instruction video is as complete as possible in helping you through this temporary setback.

– James Gill

Jesse Jenkins

Pro Tips

Weeds in Lawns

Weeds in Garden and Landscape Beds

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