Garden Center Hours: Mon-Sat 9am - 5:30pm • Sun 10am - 5:30pm

James Gill had his annual Get Ready for Spring garden talk here at Gill’s last weekend. As always, it was a big hit – standing room only! In case you missed it, we decided to do a recap:

Pre-Spring Lawn Tips
  • Prevent and treat Take All Root Rot using Peat Moss:  Rake out dead grass, spread Peat Moss, and water it in. Wait until dry to water again. 
  • Know when to water your lawn – if a screwdriver is hard to push into the soil, its’ time to water. If it pushes into the soil easily, you’ve got enough moisture. 
  • Wait to fertilize your lawn until it’s growing, and you need to mow it once a week – usually March
  • If you get Bermuda grass in your landscape beds, use Grass B Gone
  • There’s not a practical way to remove Bermuda grass in your St. Augustine lawn – the best way is to keep your St. Augustine healthy (watered and fed) and it will choke out the Bermuda
To Prune or Not to Prune?

Prune Now

  • Lantana
  • Esperanza
  • Plumbago
  • Hibiscus
  • Firebush
  • Jatropha
  • Grasses 
  • Shrub Roses

Do Not Prune

  • Crape Myrtles
  • Citrus Trees
  • Bougainvillea
  • Fig Trees

Prune AFTER Spring Bloom

  • Azaleas
  • Mountain Laurel
  • Indian Hawthorn
  • Climbing Roses
Fertilize Citrus Trees Now
  • Use organic Citrus Tone
  • Spread inside and just outside the drip line (where water drips off the tree branches and leaves when you water it)

-James

1. Proper Watering

This is the most important of all. Water slow and deep to make sure at least one inch of water is applied to all established lawn and landscape plants for our long hot summers. Smaller bedding plants such as annual color and perennial beds will require a second supplemental watering since they have a smaller root system.

2. Mulching

Use hardwood mulch three to four inches deep in planting beds to help conserve moisture as well as control weeds. Most mulch is applied too thin, only two inches rather than three to four. Do not bury crown of plant or trunk of shrubs.

3. Top Dress The Lawn

A thin layer of Nature’s Blend Compost applied several times a year helps to enrich the soil and will cut watering demands.

4. Insect Controls

Many insects are seasonal. Chinch bugs attack lawns in the hot summer months, so watch the edges of your lawn for the first signs. Spider mites also love the hot dry summer season. Keep an eye on junipers, pittosporums and houseplants for signs of mottling on the leaves or leaf drop and treat as soon as possible. Mealy bugs are also a  hot weather insect and leave white cotton along the stems and undersides of many plants. More than one application may be needed to control some of these insects.

5. Fungus Control

This is not always an issue in the summer, but can be if we are getting periods of heavy rain. Proper year round watering and adding Nature’s Blend several times a year will help minimize fungal issues.

6. Fertilizing

Keeping your plants fed for the summer is very important, but applying at a lower rate may help to keep them healthy without encouraging too much new growth. Using organic fertilizers keep the plants healthy which minimizes insect attacks, Milorganite Fertilizer for instance.

7. Pruning

Some plants will need to be pruned in the summer to keep them more compact and not overgrown. Be careful, though, since some plants can sunburn easily when removing the upper leaves which have been shading the rest of the plant.

8. Weed Control

Some weeds burn off in the summer heat. Pre-emergents, such as Green Light Amaze and Hi Yield Weed & Grass Stopper can be applied year round in landscape beds to prevent weeds. Organic weed killers, such as Nature’s Guide Horticultural Vinegar, for landscape beds, are most effective in hot summer temperatures. But broadleaf lawn weed killers cannot be used in your grass once temperatures get above 85 degrees due to burning. Keep the grass mowed to remove seed heads of weeds. Mechanical means is always the best.

9. Proper Mowing Height

Proper mowing height will shade the ground and cause less water evaporation from the soil, reducing water needs. St. Augustine is best at three inches, so raise the mower. Also a sharp mower blade helps the grass look fresh and green, while a dull blade leaves ragged edges that turn brown and cause the lawn to look somewhat dead and dull.

10. Proper Plant – Proper Place

With any landscape make sure you have thought out the full mature height and width of plants, sun requirements and water needs before planting. You should never be constantly pruning a plant because it is too large for the space. That is the wrong plant for the spot. Also group like water need plants together. The most drought tolerant plants should be those furthest from the water source.

Now that you have worked hard at planting and maintaining the landscape, take the time to kick back, relax and admire the beauty you created. Gardening is great therapy! it not only burns calories, it also reduces stress from a hard day’s work and helps to lower blood pressure. Colleges are even offering courses in horticultural therapy. Gardeners live longer lives; plants give you reason to get up and get moving!

deanna-DeAnna

Now that the weather is getting warmer, it is finally periwinkle time. Periwinkles are a great annual that thrive in our hot summers and keep going into the fall. My mother has a periwinkle hanging basket my sister gave her last summer that stills looks great!!

An irritating issue with periwinkles is they can get stem rot, a bad disease problem for periwinkles. The variety we sell, Cora, is less susceptible to stem rot than the older varieties, but can still get it. This disease is caused by a soil-borne, fungal-like microorganism, phytophthora, that can persist in the soil for years. Under conditions of overhead watering or heavy rainfall, this disease can spread rapidly throughout your periwinkle planting beds.

To minimize the possibility of this disease there are a few steps you can take to help prevent it from occurring. Be sure to work compost into the soil to help loosen the ground for better drainage. Space the plants 8-10 inches apart. Mulch heavily with hardwood mulch.

Slow easy watering with a soaker hose or drip irrigation at the base of the plants is best instead of overhead irrigating. Hand watering carefully to saturate the soil around the plants without watering directly over the top is also advisable. If you have had stem rot or want to insure success, water your plantings in with Actinovate Fungicide.  All these tips will help you be successful with periwinkles!

deanna-DeAnna