Lawn Care

With all the recent rains, mosquitos have invaded – bigtime! Spend more time enjoying the outdoors and less time swatting with these solutions.

Get Rid of (or treat) Standing Water

First of all, remove any sources of standing water (that’s where mosquitos breed). Dump out any pots or buckets that are holding water, and clear areas along the side of the house/garage to allow water to flow out of your yard.

Remember that it’s also important to have a source of water for birds and other wildlife. So, for birdbaths and fountains, use Mosquito Bits, and for larger ponds or ditches, use Mosquito Dunks. Both are organic and safe for pets and other creatures.

Pro tip: collect rainwater in empty coolers. Let them fill up, close the lid, no mosquitos!

Treat Your Yard

Mosquito Beater or Summit Mosquito and Gnat Barrier hose-end (Permethrin) are easy sprays to kill mosquitoes, ants, fleas & ticks throughout the yard. It is safe to spray on all plants where mosquitoes hide. Cedar Repel hose-end is a totally organic cedar oil yard spray that works great to repel mosquitos.

Keep ‘em Away

Mosquito Beater Granules are a combination of natural essential oils to repel. They contain citronella oil, garlic, geranium oil, cedar oil, and lemon grass oil. Covers 4000 sq. ft and lasts up to 3 weeks. Cedarcide granules are great too – they’re just cedar granules that you spread around your lawn. Works well and smells nice too.

The Patio Egg Diffuser protects up to 200 sq. ft. and comes with enough refill oil to last up to 4 months. Great for a porch or balcony area. The Patio Egg Diffuser protects up to 200 sq. ft. and comes with enough refill oil to last up to 4 months. Great for a porch or balcony area. We are keeping a few sticks of Skeeter Screen incense burning here at Gill’s this week with good results. One stick lasts about 8hrs!

A combination of all these safe solutions + the right plants = a lot less buzzing and biting.

We’re talking with customers everyday who are concerned that they have a fungus on their plants. My first thought is that it would be rare to have fungus this time of year since its so warm, windy, and dry. It’s much more likely to be a bug. Here’s how to identify and control.

Is it white and cottony on the stems and flower buds? If so, you have Mealybugs! They show up in the Summer on Hibiscus, Jatropha, Purslane, Salvia and many more of our plants. You can treat with organic Spinosad soap or Bee Safe 3-in1 Garden Spray – be sure to spray in the evening due to our high temperatures. We recommend spraying the plant once a week for 3 weeks.

Do your leaves look brown and speckled? Sounds and looks like a fungus, but this time of year, its most likely lace bugs on the underside of leaves. They are notorious for attacking Lantana. We’ve even seen some lace bugs on Zinnias and Persimmon trees this Summer. We recommend you cut your plants back one third to half, fertilize and then spray with organic Spinosad soap.

*Scale and sooty mold on a Eucalyptus tree*

Do your Crape Myrtles look black and sooty? This is a tricky one: black sooty mold is a fungus, but it’s caused by insects. Aphids, scale insects, and whitefly leave behind a sticky residue (called “honeydew”) that black sooty mold grows on. If you kill the bug, then the soot goes away. Each of these can be controlled with organic Spinosad soap or Bee Safe 3-in-1 Garden Spray.

-DeAnna

S l o w d o w n watering for established trees, shrubs, ground covers, lawns, and potted plants for Fall and Winter. Once a week was appropriate in warmer temperatures, but I would water on average once every two weeks through November, and then turn off the sprinkler for December and January.

If we go 3 weeks with no substantial rain, then water beds and lawns thoroughly one time. If freezing temperatures are in the forecast, run the sprinklers the previous afternoon to add heat to the soil and fill air spaces in the soil with water to exclude the cold air.

Newly planted trees and shrubs, newly potted plants, and winter annual flowers and vegetables in active growth will need more regular watering, and may be particularly sensitive to a cold, low-humidity dry norther. If there are zero clouds in the sky, and you are licking your lips, and there is a stiff breeze blowing, that dry breeze can necessitate watering despite the cool/cold temperatures.

Slowing down watering in Fall will slow metabolism in your trees, shrubs, groundcovers, lawns, and potted plants, and this makes them more tolerant of a freeze. Also, excessive frequency of lawn watering in Winter makes grass more susceptible to Take All Root Rot fungus. So, use appropriate watering as a sound gardening tool.

-James Gill

We are beyond excited to host you all in person for our first Garden Talk of 2022! James’ ‘Get Ready for Spring’ talk is a long-standing tradition. If you’ve got questions or just want to learn more about how to prep your garden and landscape for big Spring growth, join us at 10am this Saturday. Here’s a preview from James of some of the topics he plans to cover.

Prune Old Growth to Make Way for New Growth

Clean, sharpen, and lubricate your pruning tools before starting, and before putting tools away. Remember that once you have cut it, you can’t put it back on, this applies to tree limbs, and to human digits, so proceed carefully! My feeling is, cut old growth before new growth has started, to avoid wasting carbohydrate reserves of the plant, and to minimize damage to tender new growth when dragging cut branches out of the plant.

Prepare Your Soil and Get Planting!

Before planting new shubs, vegetables, or annual or perennial flowers, we should prepare the soil with compost. My favorite is Natures Blend Compost, the closest thing to “magic in a bag”. It keeps clay soil lighter and looser, or in sand, helps hold moisture and nutrients available for roots, and provides slow release organic fertility and growth stimulants. Cold tolerant trees, shrubs, annuals, and perennials benefit from being planted as far away from summer heat as possible, so NOW! And it’s time to get your spring veggie garden planted too. Follow up with a good organic mulch after planting, such as our hardwood mulch, that will suppress weeds, retain moisture, moderate soil temperatures as it gets hotter, and contribute to soil texture and fertility as it decomposes.

Early Spring Lawn Care

Do not apply lawn fertilizer on grass too early. When lawns are actively growing and need mowing once a week, that is the time to fertilize grass, usually around the first of March. Some weeds will be coming up in beds and lawns, and some of them can be controlled by hand pulling after a rain, some by mowing regularly so they don’t get tall enough to make seed. But some will be best controlled by applying Bonide Weed Beater Complete, LAWNS ONLY, to kill existing broadleaf weeds and prevent new weeds from sprouting. Or in beds, Bonide Crabgrass and Weed Preventer, which will not kill existing weeds, but prevents new weeds from sprouting. Always read and follow label directions for best results. I like Ortho GroundClear Weed & Grass Killer to help control emerged weeds in flower beds. It is organic, and safer to use around desirable shrubs.

Feed Your Fruit Trees

Now is time to fertilize fruit trees with Espoma Organic Citrus-tone, or Fertilome Fruit, Citrus, and Pecan Tree Food. The nitrogen in both is critical to production of healthy foliage, which is what provides necessary carbohydrates for fruit. You will repeat application later in spring, and again in fall. Also, citrus trees should have sprouts removed that come from below the graft, as they will produce only sour fruit.

When to Remove Stakes from Newly Planted Trees

If you have trees planted in the last year or two, with stakes still holding it upright, late winter/very early spring is a good time to check that staking. Loosen the ties, then try to rock the tree. If the rootball stays stable but the trunk bends, remove the staking and ties. If the rootball still moves, the staking should stay another season, but the loop around the trunk may need to be loosened so the new growth is not choked by the staking tie.

Check Your Sprinkler System and Hoses

If you have an automatic sprinkler system, hopefully it has been turned off most of the winter. It would make sense to do a run-through now, to take notes and make repairs on any plugged, sunken, or missing heads, line breaks, or non-functional valves. You may need to start watering once a week in March. If you use hoses and sprinklers, now is time to mend hoses and replace missing hose washers.

Fire Ants and Other Pests

If you are seeing fire ant activity, you can apply Come and Get It Fire Ant Bait now, but my favorite times are at the spring and fall daylight saving time changes. All Seasons Horticultural & Dormant Spray Oil is best applied before new leaves emerge to control scale, mealybug, and other problem insects that may be overwintering on your shrubs or ornamental trees, such as bicolor iris and bird of paradise.

-James

Since we stayed cool so long in early Spring, most of us weren’t thinking about watering. But now that we’re in a long period of no rain, high winds, and warmer temps, good watering is critical. Here are our tips to make sure your lawn and plants are properly hydrated.

Depth Moisture: Water Longer and Deeper, Not Just More Frequently

Watering frequently seems like a logical thing to do, but lawns and plants benefit more from deeper drinks, less often. The goal should be to create depth moisture, so plant roots grow deeper in search of water. If you water frequently but not deeply, plant roots will stay shallow where the water is, which makes them less resistant to dry conditions, less resistant to pests and disease, and generally punier!

For lawns in clay soil areas (most of the Coastal Bend) right now, water deeply once a week. Try the tuna can trick: place an empty tuna or cat food can in your lawn, then water the area until the can is full. For clay soil, keep in mind that water runs off faster than it can soak in, so we need to use the TAMU Cycle and Soak Method. For sandy soil (Flour Bluff, Rockport, Padre Island, Port Aransas) you should water more frequently with less volume.

For landscape plants, water deeply at ground level to get water down into the root ball. Don’t shower from above. To prevent runoff, give each plant a short burst, then revisit each plant several times. Also keep in mind that too much water will rot the roots and not allow the plant to take up water and nutrients. Too much water/not enough water will result in very similar symptoms. Best to use a moisture meter – more on that below!

Water in the Morning

If you were running a race, would you rather have a good drink of water at the beginning of the race or no water until the end? Same goes for lawns and plants – they benefit from watering in the morning so they can sustain themselves through the heat of the day.

Moisture Meter – a Gardener’s Best Friend!

Take out the guesswork and use a moisture meter. We promise it’s not cheating! Take it around with you when you’re watering, poke it into the root ball of each plant, get an accurate moisture reading, and water accordingly. So easy to use and SO helpful. Can’t go wrong for about $10.

Try Moisture Retention Technology?

We are planning to experiment with a biodegradable product called Hydretain which uses “a liquid group of hygroscopic and humectant components that attracts moisture. In other words, by acting like tiny “water magnets,” they form microscopic droplets within the root zone. As a result, this process allows plants to utilize soil moisture which would otherwise be lost to evaporation.” If we can stand behind the results, we will likely carry it here at Gill’s.

Why does Mark Scott, community leader and eight-term city councilman, grow zinnias? So he can keep fresh flowers on his wife Carol’s bathroom counter for a big portion of the year!

They were college sweethearts and have been married for 38 years. I think there’s a lesson for us all!

Mark and Carol welcomed me into their home a few weeks back. I wanted to see his zinnia garden in person. I’d seen it on social media and could tell from the photos he was serious about growing them. Come to find out, he purchases exotic zinnia seeds from all over the world; this year they came from Washington, California, Maine, England, Latvia, and Japan.

Zinnias grow native primarily in Mexico, as far south as Guatemala, and as far north as Colorado.

They are members of the Aster family and are closely related to the daisy. Zinnias were available by seed as early as the late 1700s, but it wasn’t until the mid-1800s when the French developed the double form of the plant that they became wildly popular in the United States.

Zinnias are one of the most giving summer bloomers in South Texas and they come in a wonderful range of colors from pinks, corals, and whites to yellows, purples, and oranges. You can buy one package of mixed California Giant Zinnias, plant them in your garden with full sun and regular watering and be sure to have flowers on your dining room table all summer long. My mother grew zinnias when I was a young girl because she loved the bright colors. And because they were easy!

Mark dedicates about 10’ x 40’ of a sunny portion of his backyard to his zinnias. He works his soil each year in February with compost to enrich it and builds raised beds for planting his seed. He plants rows 24” apart with weed mat between each row. In March, Mark digs a small trench, drops seed in, and once seedlings are 2” tall (within about a week) he pulls excess seedlings to give plants room to grow. Zinnias are prone to getting a bit of fungus on leaves if they stay wet so Mark uses soaker hoses to water from below. That keeps the soil moist and leaves dry!

Mark loves sharing his zinnias. Beyond gifting his flowers to Carol – especially the purple blossoms – her favorite, Mark delivers them to his friends and family. People know when they open their front door and see a mason jar with zinnias on the front porch, Mark has been there. What a great way to make a person’s day better!!

Mark begins every morning outside. After a bike ride, he sits in his beautiful courtyard, shaded by pecans and oak, and plays fetch with his dogs. Carol and Mark spend time most evenings in their courtyard, drinking a bit of wine, picking and pruning on their plants, and reflecting on the day. Their love of nature and family and friends is beautifully reflected in their garden; thank you for sharing your gift with us, Mark and Carol!

– Sally Gill

If you know you are watering well, but still see edges of lawn near the sidewalk and driveway that look dry and wilted, you might have chinch bugs. Here’s a quick video on how to identify.

[watch now – sound on!]

Once you determine that chinch bugs are present, you can treat with hose-end Cyonara or Diatomaceaus Earth for an organic control.

Keep in mind: Chinch bugs are more likely to attack a dry stressed lawn before a healthy, well-hydrated lawn. Give lawns a deep drink (a good 1” of water) once a week, in the morning. Deep drinks encourage roots to grow deeper, which makes lawns more resilient to dry conditions and to pests.

Here comes the sun! Plants and lawns are certainly well-hydrated after all that rain. Our first impulse may be to fertilize as soon as the sun comes out, but we need to wait a little longer. Here’s how to make sure you get the best impact from feeding.

Lawns

In normal conditions, Fall lawn fertilizing should happen anytime between mid-September and mid-November. This year, we’d suggest waiting until later in September at the earliest. As you’ve probably noticed, since the soil was so dry before the big rains, it is taking longer for water to soak in or run off. You want your lawn to dry back out some before you fertilize so you can water the fertilizer in well (a good, evenly-applied ½ inch) and get it down to the roots. We love organic Medina Growin’ Green for lawns. One bag covers 3,000 sq. ft. and we have fertilizer spreaders available if you need to rent one.

Established Landscape Plants

The same principle applies to established landscape plants. After the rains, they are getting ready to explode with new growth. Give them a week or so to dry out a bit, then give them a good feeding. They’ll need the extra energy. Organic Medina Growin’ Green or Plant Tone are excellent all-purpose granular fertilizers for landscape plants. Granular foods can be applied about once a month and supplemented with liquid Hasta Gro every couple weeks.

New Plantings

If you got new veggies, flowers, or new landscape plants in before the rains, lucky you! Again, give them a little time to dry out a bit, then continue to feed with an organic granular once a month and supplement with liquid Hasta Gro every 2 weeks. Veggies are heavy feeders, especially if you want a big harvest. If you’re getting ready to plant now, be sure to get a bag of Bio Tone starter fertilizer. Mix a small handful into the soil when you plant to stimulate root growth.