march

Care Of Your Poinsettias

Place the plant in an area where it will receive as much indirect light as possible and do not place it in a draft. Should your poinsettia be wrapped in foil, punch a hole in the bottom to provide good drainage and place pot in a saucer. An easy way to water poinsettias is to set it in the sink, soak it, and at the same time, remove yellowed foliage off the bottom of the plant. Check your poinsettia every other day to every third day, depending on light. Another way to water is placing ice cubes on the soil daily to maintain even moisture through the season. The amount of ice cubes depends on the pot size. For small 4 inch- 2-3 cubes daily. For 6 inch use 3-5 cubes and for larger pots use a few more. Double check the moisture occasionally with your finger or moisture meter. Most enjoy the poinsettia for the holidays and then move on to other spring blooming plants in January and February. If, on the other hand, you want to grow it for your garden, in March , cut your plant back short and either repot or plant it in the ground in a sunny protected area. With a few simple steps, your poinsettia will give you blooms year after year.

Bonus Tidbit! Gill’s Connection To Today’s Poinsettia

Native to Mexico, the poinsettia can be traced as far back as the 14th century. The name poinsettia is credited to Joel Roberts Poinsett, a United States ambassador to Mexico in the 1820’s who brought the plant back to the US. In the 1950’s, Dr. Robert Stewart, a geneticist for the Agricultural Research Service Florist and Nursery Crops Laboratory in Beltsville, MD., started researching poinsettias to improve their quality. New colors like pink, white, and spotted variations are attributed to Dr. Stewart’s work, James Gill’s uncle!

The fall season brings a whole new garden of flowers to enjoy. Plus it is great fun to get your hands dirty! So here’s a few tips to help you transition to the new cool weather annuals coming in now!

Decide “sun or shade?” All flowers have their best growing conditions, if you have sun well you need to plant sun loving flowers, shade, plant the shade lovers. Watch the area you are going to plant or set your container.
Prepare the soil. Most annuals have fine hair-like roots that require rich loose soil with good drainage. Turn the soil with a digging fork or tiller, add Cotton Burr Compost and mix, rake area, top dress with Natures’ Blend and you’re ready to plant. The Nature’s Blend acts as a natural fertilizer and helps with controlling certain disease possibilities. If you are planting flowers in containers, use a good potting mix like Miracle Gro Potting Soil or Landscapers Pride Potting Soil.
Pick out your flowers. Most annuls for fall and winter will last from now until mid-March-April next year. Some of our favorites for sun are petunias, snapdragons, calendula, alyssum and mums. Shade favorites include impatiens, begonias, and dianthus.
Start planting! It’s important to know how close or far apart to plant your flowers. Most annuals need some space between each plant so they can grow to their potential. We can help you determine the plant spacing when you come in. Set out the plants in a zig zag pattern, equal spacing between each plant, to fill the area. Don’t worry if they’re not in perfect lines, in a few weeks you won’t see the ground anymore. We find it best to use odd numbers for containers depending on the size of the pot…..you’re almost done!
Mulch, water, fertilize. Mulch makes your new planting look great, helps with weed control and reduces watering. Water the area well with a gentle shower of water; you don’t want to beat up your new young plants. Fertilize with Hasta Gro every week or Rose Glo every month.

Now go wash up and take a break. Check your new planting every day for water for at least the first couple of weeks, cutting back as the plants grow and temps cool down. If you get worried or just not sure, we are always here and ready to help!

Debbie

1. Fertilize in Fall. It’s great to fertilize in spring, and again early summer, but fall fertilization is probably the most important of all, and the most neglected. September 15 to November 15 application makes the nutrients available while the roots are still active. This will result in better turf density (and so fewer weeds), stronger roots, and residual nutrient inside the grass runners for faster green-up next spring. Apply the recommended amount, as excess fertilizer can result in fall and winter fungus.

2. Water Properly. A long deep soaking once a week is appropriate through mid-October, then water just once every two weeks through fall and winter, if we don’t get an inch of rain. Excess frequency of watering also encourages fungus problems. Resume once a week watering mid-March to April.

3. Watch for Insects. Chinch bugs have been a scourge this summer! Grub damage can start showing up late summer. And there is always the possibility of Fall Armyworms or Sod Webworms in fall. Don’t take your neighbor’s advice, please bring in a sample of lawn as soon as you see any problem (still somewhat alive but showing symptoms) and maybe a photo, and let us advise on proper treatment. Don’t just douse any and all brown spots with pesticide. Some may be old drought/heat damage, some may be fungus.

4. Mow Properly. Once a week minimum during rapid growth. More frequently is even better if you can manage it (notice how often you see the mowers on the golf course). This results in better density and therefore fewer weeds. Keep your blade sharpened for best grass health. During late fall and winter fungus season, see if you can get your yardman to sterilize his mower before getting on your lawn to minimize spread of fungal spores from other yards (good luck with that!)

5. Control Weeds. If you have followed recommendations 1-4, you are already ahead! But the next step, if you feel it necessary, is a pre-emergent weed preventer, such as Amaze or Dimension, applied in October and again in January. Follow label recommendations for best results, you do not want to over or under apply. We do not recommend weed-and-feed fertilizers, because plants and shrubs all need fertilizer, but weed killers can damage or kill shrubs and trees, and effective application times for fertilizers and weed killers are very different. If you have some broadleaf weeds (clover, sow thistle, dandelion, chickweed) occurring in January or February, you can spot apply a broadleaf weed-killer such as Weed-B-Gon for Southern Lawns.

James

The 2 days of freezing weather did not help our lawns at all, but I think there may be more happening than just the cold weather. I am hearing customers finding grub worms in the lawns, flowerbeds and potted plants. I have also seen chinch bugs in lawn samples brought in for diagnosis. I would first check the lawn for insects before treating for fungus or fertilizing. If you are uncertain you can dig up a shovel width sample of soil, grass and all wrapped in newspaper or placed in a box for us to look at.

Once we determine insects, fungus or neither, it is time to think about fertilizing. Once the grass is actively growing to the point you are mowing once a week, then it is time to apply fertilizer. I always say, “you can put a bowl of food by a sleeping dog and he won’t eat till he wakes up.” The same is true for the lawn. Since we want our lawns to recover quickly and look good again, timing is key. We need to make sure it has woke up from winter dormancy.

There are also lots of weeds in the lawn. Pre-emergents such as Weed and Grass Stopper with Dimension prevent weed seeds from sprouting and should be applied in January to stop Spring weeds, but can be applied year around for weed prevention. Existing weeds can be killed with Weed b Gon hose-end spray. It is most effective applied with 3-5 days of warm weather and sunshine in the forecast and no watering or rain for at least 3 days. Also make sure you are watering slow and deep enough since we have had several months of record heat. With a little time , patience and TLC the lawns should recover and look great once again.

-DeAnna

September

It’s not too late to get your squash, cucumber and beans seeds in the ground for a fall crop. It’s important to get them up and going before a cold snap.

Mid-September Through Fall

Broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower & brussel sprouts best planted now from transplant.

Lettuce, kale & spinach can be planted in seed & transplant now through the fall for winter and spring harvest. Same with radishes, carrots & beets.

Mid November

Onion seeds are planted mid October. We will have the onion sets in the store mid-November for planting. Harvest period is January, February and March.

January

We’ll have seed potatoes in the store in January for April harvest.

Our favorite soil amending for veggie gardens is:

For a new garden:
Cotton Burr compost

To recondition an existing garden:
Nature’s Blend (cotton burr compost & manure)

At planting:
Rocket Fuel (bat guano, green sand & more)

Once a month through the season:
Plant Tone (poultry manure with innoculants)

1. Fertilize in Fall.

It’s great to fertilize in spring, and again early summer, but fall fertilization is probably the most important of all, and the most neglected. September 15 to November 15 application makes the nutrients available while the roots are still active. This will result in better turf density (and so fewer weeds), stronger roots, and residual nutrient inside the grass runners for faster green-up next spring. Apply the recommended amount, as excess fertilizer can result in fall and winter fungus.

2. Water Properly.

A long deep soaking once a week is appropriate through mid-October, then water just once every two weeks through fall and winter, if we don’t get an inch of rain. Excess frequency of watering also encourages fungus problems. Resume once a week watering mid-March to April.

3. Watch for Insects.

Chinch bugs have been a scourge this summer! Grub damage can start showing up late summer. And there is always the possibility of Fall Armyworms or Sod Webworms in fall. Don’t take your neighbor’s advice, please bring in a sample of lawn as soon as you see any problem (still somewhat alive but showing symptoms) and maybe a photo, and let us advise on proper treatment. Don’t just douse any and all brown spots with pesticide. Some may be old drought/heat damage, some may be fungus.

4. Mow Properly.

Once a week minimum during rapid growth. More frequently is even better if you can manage it (notice how often you see the mowers on the golf course). This results in better density and therefore fewer weeds. Keep your blade sharpened for best grass health. During late fall and winter fungus season, see if you can get your yardman to sterilize his mower before getting on your lawn to minimize spread of fungal spores from other yards (good luck with that!)

5. Control Weeds.

If you have followed recommendations 1-4, you are already ahead! But the next step, if you feel it necessary, is a pre-emergent weed preventer, such as Bonide Weed & Crabgrass Preventer 9.5lb or Bonide Weed Beater Complete 10lb, applied in October and again in January. Follow label recommendations for best results, you do not want to over or under apply. We do not recommend weed-and-feed fertilizers, because plants and shrubs all need fertilizer, but weed killers can damage or kill shrubs and trees, and effective application times for fertilizers and weed killers are very different. If you have some broadleaf weeds (clover, sow thistle, dandelion, chickweed) occurring in January or February, you can spot apply a broadleaf weed-killer such as Weed-B-Gon for Southern Lawns.

-James

A young Gary, just starting out with his Dad’s firm!

No, numbers aren’t the most glamorous part of a successful garden center, restaurant or sporting goods store. It’s the plants, food and surf boards. That’s why we shop in those stores, but that’s only one of the reasons why those stores continue to thrive!

A very important part of the success of a business is proper accounting and money management. The first lesson, money can’t be managed unless it is properly accounted for.

Very early on in our business I needed accounting help. I immediately thought of Gary Pearce, a good friend and CPA. After graduating from the University of Texas in accounting, he moved back to Corpus Christi to work with his dad, Marshal W. Pearce, in his accounting firm. Gary and I had known each other since elementary school. His parents, Marshal & June, hosted our first boy-girl party in their backyard! I called Gary in March (middle of tax season), 1979. I can’t believe he took my call! We met at the end of tax season to discuss our business venture. Gary, always the optimist, listened to our ideas and encouraged us, giving us guidance in our business. For the next year, Gary did an income statement for us each month, donating his time! He is a very kind man, as many know. James and I had no experience in retail before starting Gill’s. We didn’t know you were supposed to take the register tape out of the cash register at the end of each day to check cash, checks, charges, etc… Oh, there was so much to learn!! To this day we seek Gary’s advice and his services. THANK GOODNESS FOR GARY!

A few years into the business I called Gary again and told him I was having a hard time keeping up with the buying and accounting. He mentioned a woman who had worked for him in the past whom he felt would be a perfect match for us. Betty Maskey. She was a detail person, understood numbers, and loved to garden! She was perfect for Gill’s.

Betty with our son, Trevor, back in the late 80’s.

Betty accounted for inventory coming and going, did our payroll, accounted for our landscape job costs and at the end of every month created an income statement, all by calculator, paper and pen. No computers back then!

James and I did not disagree often, but when we did we would seek Betty’s advice. What a wise woman! I’ll say, beyond wise, she was also kind and unbiased. She didn’t play favorites, even though I know she adored James! Today, we all say in chorus, THANK GOODNESS FOR BETTY!

In the early 90’s, Betty and her husband Harry decided they wanted to be closer to their kids so she turned in her notice. She gave us six months to find a replacement. Again, very, very kind!

Barbara & Stacy taking a break from numbers to play in the snow!

We placed an ad in the Corpus Christi Caller Times for the position and, oh my goodness, the applications came rolling in! I bet we had forty applications. As I looked through them, I kept wishing, “if only I could find someone like Barbara.” My mother had hired Barbara to work at my dad’s engineering firm years ago. I kept looking and looking, and towards the end of the enormous pile was Barbara’s application! What a gift! We hired Barbara immediately. Betty trained Barbara and voila, the transition was made.

As the company continued to grow, we hired assistants for Barbara, including Debbie, and then in the early 2000’s we hired Stacy. Today, Stacy manages our accounts payables and receivables. Stacy has an eagle-eye for accounting mistakes and finds them very quickly. She is a plant lover, too, and always snags beautiful plants as they roll off our vendor’s trucks. I love seeing her finds tucked next to her desk in the accounting office!

Barbara and Stacy make a fabulous accounting team. Their attention to detail, professionalism, reliability and true love for our company are beyond the best. They are the best of the best!!

Sally, James & Betty around Thanksgiving, 2017.

Betty stopped in before the holidays to visit and amazingly, even 25 years later, she can still walk in and we all get excited, “Betty’s here!!”

So, yes, Gill’s is more about plants than anything else, but we could never do it without our people.

THANK GOODNESS FOR GARY, BETTY, BARBARA & STACY, our “numbers people”!

-Sally

Spring is upon us once again and with that comes the flush of new growth followed by the awakening of hungry insects! One good product to help keep your new young foliage beautiful this spring is All Seasons Horticultural & Dormant Spray Oil.

Dormant Oil is an easy and organic way of deterring pests by suffocating out anything that may have overwintered on your plants, including any eggs that may have also made it through the winter. January, February and March is the only time we’re cool enough to use it. Use it much later and you run the risk of burning your plants as it is an oil. It’s easy to use- just hook it up to your hose and spray to the point of dripping. It can be used on woody ornamentals, Crape Myrtles, Hibiscus, Allamandas, and many more. I have also found that it helps to soften up the black sooty mold that tends to stay around after an infestation of aphids, whitefly, etc. making it easier to wash/spray off. It also makes the plant sprayed all shiny and new looking again!

Note: Do not use on ferns or succulents!

-Whitney