Weeds

Lawn’s green, no weeds, so why do anything?

Our lawns are so green after all this rain! You’re probably thinking “Well shoot, do I have to fertilize or worry about weeds?” The answer is “Yes you do!” Mother Nature gave us a boost with beneficial rains; with a few easy steps your lawn can be healthier. Read on and come see us. We’ll help you tend to your lawn and garden!

First, Fertilize Now

Anytime between now and mid November is prime time to fertilize your lawn, trees, shrubs, vines and groundcovers with Gill Lawn and Garden, Medina Growin Green, or Milorganite. Fertilizing while it is still warm is best because plants are still in their active growing season and taking up the nutrients provided. Once the weather starts cooling down plants begin going into dormancy and therefore are not as likely to take up nutrients. Remember to water in your fertilizer with at least a half inch of irrigation.

Second, Pre-emergent

The pre-emergent is a granule that prevents weed seeds from germinating. We carry two different ones depending on the weed problem you may have. Gallery can be used in the lawn to prevent most all broadleaf weeds and some grassy weeds, but cannot be used in the flowerbeds. Dimension is the other one that will control broadleaf weeds as well as crabgrass and sand burrs. Dimension can be used in the flower beds around established plants listed.

Third, kill existing weeds that are up and growing, with a post emergent.

Weed B Gon will kill broadleaf weeds without hurting your St. Augustine, including Floratam, as long as temperatures are mid 80’s or lower. But do not apply Weed B Gon around trees or shrubs. If Dollarweed or sand burrs are your main problem, use Image.

Fourth, remember to alter your sprinkler systems to only once a week until mid-November, then turn to the off position and only turn on as needed every 10 days to 2 weeks if we get no rain.

With the shorter days and the dormant season upon us the lawn does not require as much water. You also do not want to encourage fungus due to excessive moisture. Come see us with any questions you may have about your lawn!

-DeAnna

We’ve had abundant, much needed rain this past week! Soils are well hydrated. There may be issues with too much rain with the forecast of more tropical downpours coming over the next few days. If you have any concerns about water coming into the house or garage, you have a little time to act preventatively.

Make sure there are no impediments to flow! I have seen back yards and side yards filled with old ice chests, firewood, unused bricks or stepping stones, bags of mulch, trash bags full of yard waste, and yard waste fallen from the trees and never picked up, all slowing the flow of storm water and causing it to back up so high it is going over the foundation and into the garage or house. If leaves have collected, use the blower to clear the area.

Also, mowing or using the weedeater to lower grass or weeds is beneficial, tall grass slows water flow. Make sure you have several inches of clearance under fences or gates, as debris afloat on storm water will move until it catches on a low fence and then will form a dam.

If a mulched bed or soil or lawn area is too high to allow water to flow out, start digging. Remember, a ditch does no good when dug only in the low areas, any high area overlooked will prevent the water from running out. So spot that high area and start working there. I’ve often found after a flood where people in desperation have dug a ditch across the back of the house and down the side yard, and then stop at the fence! If you don’t reach a low area, with no impediments in between, you did not finish the job.

Our landscape department has the tools, experience, and manpower to handle drainage problems, so if the result of this rain has you concerned about your drainage, and its more than you can handle yourself, give us a call.

-James Gill

If your watering hose is in the sun, make sure to let the water run through for a little while before watering your plants. Hot hoses make for hot water!
Caladiums last longer if you pinch off the bloom stalks, which are always great for bouquets.
If your tomatoes or cucumbers remind you of Jack and the Beanstalk, use Takiron stakes and jute twine to lengthen your cage and keep those veggies contained.
You CAN give perennials a haircut in the summertime if you need to, but please nothing too drastic. Shearing blooms and gentle pruning are great ways to keep perennials looking fresh.
Weeds love to encroach on your garden beds in the summer. Walk your beds once a week! Pulling up small weeds now is alwayseasier, and can save you a lot of sweat.
If you have to spray insecticides or fungicides, do in early in the morning or late afternoon, not in the middle of the day! Water droplets have this nasty little habit of acting like magnifying glasses in 90 degree weather, and can cause burns.

-Marta

Floratam

Pro- Good drought tolerance, better disease tolerance, vigorous growth quick to heal damage and resist weeds

Con- Less shade tolerant than some varieties, less tolerant of some weed killers, less resistant to severe freeze (not a factor this far south), most coarse in texture

TamStar

Pro- Said to have good drought, disease, cold, and shade tolerance

Con- Very new introduction, so we don’t know for sure if these claims will pan out for us

Raleigh

Pro- Good shade, cold tolerance

Con- Poor resistance to drought, disease

Note: There is no St. Augustine resistant to grub worms, and there are situations too shady for any St. Augustine to grow. If shade might be a problem, buy one piece of grass, cut into plugs, plant, water, and fertilize carefully, and if it does not grow over spring and summer, consider flagstone paving, wood deck, shade tolerant groundcovers and shrubs, or a combination of these.

Note: Due to our cold winter, Floratam & Tamstar will be available beginning in April 2018!

-James

Wow! Snow and 2 hard freezes has really hurt my lawn. The only thing growing are the weeds. The weather is now warm enough, but not quite sunny enough to spray your Weed b Gon Spray. Weed killer sprays will work their best with sunshine and no rain. Be sure to check the forecast to see if we are sunny for 3-5 days with no rain or your irrigation system.

Wait to fertilize once your grass is completely out of winter dormancy so it will absorb the fertilizer and give you the results you are looking for.

Have you finished pruning? It not, please prune quickly. The spring flush of new growth is about to happen since the weather has warmed up and you don’t want to miss the opportunity for Mother Nature to give you all that new foliage and then just cut it all off. Watch the video below for tips to proper spring pruning.

Once everything is pruned and new growth begins flushing it is time to fertilize. You will fertilize your tropicals and shrubs with Hibiscus Food, Rose Glo or even easier, Gill Lawn and Garden Food when you fertilize your lawn. Timing is key to a beautiful lawn and landscape once again.

-DeAnna

Even though your lawn has filled with weeds it is not too late to apply a pre-emergent. The weeds you have now will put on a flower and drop seeds to sprout more weeds. A pre-emergent will not kill the existing weeds but will prevent more from sprouting. Broadleaf Weed Control with Gallery is recommended for most broadleaf weeds and Weed and Grass Stopper with Dimension will kill some broadleaf as well as grassy weeds like sticker burrs.

Once our weather warms up to 70-80 degrees with no rain for 5 days or more it will be time to apply Weed-B-Gon for Southern Lawns to kill the existing weeds. It is safe for Floratam St. Augustine and Bermuda. Give it 2 weeks to fully work and then it should be time to fertilize the lawn as well. Remember that fertilizer is taken up with active growth, so until we are mowing consistently every week for 2-3 weeks it is too early to get the full benefit of lawn food. Be patient with your spring lawn care. We all want to see results and have a pretty lawn again this spring.

-DeAnna

Now is the time of year to attack those unwanted weeds in the lawn.

First, fertilize the lawn in October to mid-November while the grass is still actively growing.

Water in well.

Next spread your pre-emergent.

Third, kill any existing weeds that are up and growing with a post emergent.

Weed B Gon spray can be used now since our temperatures are in the mid 80’s. It will kill the broadleaf weeds without hurting your St. Augustine, including Floratam. We also carry a new product Roundup Weed Control for Lawns that will kill many broadleaf weeds as well as wild carrot and wild onion and other grassy weeds. If Dollarweed or sand burrs are your main problem, use Image. Weed killers need to be used soon since they cannot be used as a winter weed control!

Fourth, remember to alter your sprinkler systems to only once a week until mid- November, then turn to the off position and only turn on as needed every 10 days to 2 weeks if we get no rain.

-DeAnna

1. Fertilize in Fall.

It’s great to fertilize in spring, and again early summer, but fall fertilization is probably the most important of all, and the most neglected. September 15 to November 15 application makes the nutrients available while the roots are still active. This will result in better turf density (and so fewer weeds), stronger roots, and residual nutrient inside the grass runners for faster green-up next spring. Apply the recommended amount, as excess fertilizer can result in fall and winter fungus.

2. Water Properly.

A long deep soaking once a week is appropriate through mid-October, then water just once every two weeks through fall and winter, if we don’t get an inch of rain. Excess frequency of watering also encourages fungus problems. Resume once a week watering mid-March to April.

3. Watch for Insects.

Chinch bugs have been a scourge this summer! Grub damage can start showing up late summer. And there is always the possibility of Fall Armyworms or Sod Webworms in fall. Don’t take your neighbor’s advice, please bring in a sample of lawn as soon as you see any problem (still somewhat alive but showing symptoms) and maybe a photo, and let us advise on proper treatment. Don’t just douse any and all brown spots with pesticide. Some may be old drought/heat damage, some may be fungus.

4. Mow Properly.

Once a week minimum during rapid growth. More frequently is even better if you can manage it (notice how often you see the mowers on the golf course). This results in better density and therefore fewer weeds. Keep your blade sharpened for best grass health. During late fall and winter fungus season, see if you can get your yardman to sterilize his mower before getting on your lawn to minimize spread of fungal spores from other yards (good luck with that!)

5. Control Weeds.

If you have followed recommendations 1-4, you are already ahead! But the next step, if you feel it necessary, is a pre-emergent weed preventer, such as Bonide Weed & Crabgrass Preventer 9.5lb or Bonide Weed Beater Complete 10lb, applied in October and again in January. Follow label recommendations for best results, you do not want to over or under apply. We do not recommend weed-and-feed fertilizers, because plants and shrubs all need fertilizer, but weed killers can damage or kill shrubs and trees, and effective application times for fertilizers and weed killers are very different. If you have some broadleaf weeds (clover, sow thistle, dandelion, chickweed) occurring in January or February, you can spot apply a broadleaf weed-killer such as Weed-B-Gon for Southern Lawns.

-James