Caterpillars

On occasion, we hear new gardeners (kids and adults) being fearful of the creatures that live in our outdoor spaces. Almost everyone loves birds & butterflies – I’m talking about the other workhorses of the garden… toads, frogs, lizards, spiders, bees, and wasps. I have to admit that as a child, I was very fearful of bees & anything that flew my direction, as if I were their target. Now I know that of course I wasn’t.

These creatures are garden-friendly! Not only do we get entertainment and pure joy from watching them in our landscapes – they are incredibly beneficial for controlling unwanted pests. Many wasps are predatory and devour other chewing insects. Most lizards, particularly Leopard Geckos, eat cockroaches. Beetles, unwanted caterpillars, stink bugs, and flies are kept in check naturally. No chemicals & no work necessary on our part. In the case of bees, they support the pollination of blooming and food-producing plants.

It’s important to not use chemicals that may cause harm to your beneficial creatures. Use organics – they’re safe and effective. If a chemical is necessary, use the least harmful, use only what you need, and use as directed on the label.

Diversity in nature is a key to garden success. Learn to appreciate all creatures & let’s help children to find wonder not fear in gardens. There are numerous places around the Coastal Bend to discover more about biodiversity in our area. Here’s a few:

HAPPY GARDENING!

-Debbie

Small little caterpillars are eating bougainvillea leaves as fast as they can sprout. Years ago nothing bothered a bougainvillea. Now it seems to be a constant battle. There are a couple of options you can do to help control them. Spray with organic Thuricide which only kills worms and caterpillars. You will need to reapply every week or two to keep them looking pretty and to stop the cycle. Another alternative is to drench the soil with Bayer Tree and Shrub Protect and Feed. This works systemically to prevent and to kill insects for up to 9 months. It is also labeled for containers.

–DeAnna

We were watering Pentas earlier this week and came across this funky looking fellow (above). At first, we thought it was a more common Tomato Hornworm, but after doing some research, it’s a Tersa Sphinx (Xylophanes tersa) caterpillar! Actually, both in the photo are Tersa Sphinx caterpillars at different stages. Pretty soon they’ll transform into their beautiful moth form.

Caterpillars have been a big topic of conversation here at Gill’s this Summer; more rain than usual = more caterpillars. A good rule of thumb is to leave them alone unless you see a large congregation and they’re eating enough of a plant to cause harm. A few munched leaves here and there is not a problem. If you do get a large infestation, you can treat with organic Thuricide that only targets caterpillars.

Most different species of caterpillars are only attracted to specific host plants. Pentas are a host plant for the Tersa Sphinx, which was a big clue for identification. We know that Monarch caterpillars like milkweed, Gulf fritillary’s host plant is Passion Vine, and Swallowtail caterpillars like Rue and Dutchman’s Pipe Vine.

Once caterpillars reach their butterfly or moth form, they feed on nectar from a broader variety of South Texas plants like Lantana, Zinnia, Mist flowers, Turk’s Cap, and lots more. So, it’s a good idea to plant host plants and nectar plants together to enjoy the caterpillar’s full life cycle.

-Jesse

We’re getting lots of calls and questions about caterpillars. They’re everywhere – ’tis the season! They may do some damage, or they may not. Here are 2 Earth-friendly approaches to consider.

1. Just a Few, Let Them Chew!

A few caterpillars here and there are no cause for alarm. You might choose to do nothing at all or pick them up and move them. Yes, they might munch a few leaves or a tomato or 2, but then they turn into beautiful butterflies and moths that will help pollinate your flowers and veggies. Good trade!

2. See a Lot, Organic Shot!

If you have a mass of caterpillars doing major damage, you can use organic Bt spray. Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) is a naturally occurring, soil-borne bacteria that has been used since the 1950s for caterpillar control. Bt is not a contact spray, so it needs to be applied to the foliage that the caterpillars will eat to be effective. Plants and animals are not harmed by Bt, nor are birds or lizards that eat affected caterpillars. Late afternoon as the sun goes down is the time to apply.

Side note: We received the photos below of what a customer suspected to be caterpillar damage. Since the holes in the leaves are small, and since the customer didn’t find any caterpillars or frass (caterpillar poop), this is more likely caused by snails/slugs. Try placing a shallow dish of beer nearby. The slugs will be attracted to the yeast in beer. If you don’t want to share your beer, you can make your own yeast solution with yeast, sugar, and water.

Attention parents and kids: join us here at Gill’s this Saturday for a talk and tree planting demo.

All kids will receive a free native Live Oak tree seedling and soil blend for planting! We thought it would be fun to teach kids how to plant trees and give them their own tiny tree to care for and watch it grow. Here’s a preview of what we’ll discuss – see you Saturday!

Fall is the Best Time to Plant Trees

Planting trees in the fall, as temps start to cool down, helps their root systems get a head start. They spend all fall and winter focusing energy on growing deeper and stronger roots so that next Spring they can explode with growth of new leaves and branches. Also, those strong and deep roots help prepare them to withstand hot summer temps next year.

Planting Small Trees is Easy!

Digging a big hole and planting a big tree gives you a big impact, but planting a small tree is a lot easier. It takes a lot less water too. Yes, it takes a long time to get a huge mature oak tree, but that’s a great reason to plant one as a kid! You get to nurture the tree and watch it grow, which is so rewarding.

Planting Trees Makes a Big Environmental Impact

Native trees, like Live Oaks, provide the biggest benefit to our local ecosystem. They host a large number of caterpillars that turn into pollinators (butterflies and moths). And, they help provide a food source and habitat for native and migrating birds. Not to mention, they trap carbon and create clean oxygen!

All from a shiny reddish ball. Or a fuzzy white ball. Or a corky brown ball. I’m talking oak galls, which commonly strike terror into the hearts of live oak tree owners this time of year. They are all caused by various species of small, stingless, solitary wasps. These wasps insert an egg (or several) into the tissue of small oak branches or young leaves, and are thought to modify the DNA of the plant, forcing the plant to produce a growth (the gall) that supplies both housing and food to the wasp larvae living inside. The saliva of the wasp applied at the time of the egg laying is thought to contain a virus that produces the genetic changes, so wasp larvae have been eating GMO’s for millions of years.

So wasps are defacing and eating your oak tree this fall, what you gonna do about it? As one writer says, “I recommend a cold drink, a good book and a comfortable chair.” ‘Cuz there’s nothing you can do or should do about it. Oak galls come in periodic waves, a few one year, more the next, and none the year after. Or close thereabouts. This is thought to be due variously to the tree buildup up of tannins to discourage the gall formers, and to a buildup of parasitic wasps (also stingless) that drill into the galls and lay their eggs on the gall inhabitant. Wild Mother Nature, there are even wasps that lay their eggs on wasp larvae that are consuming the original gall wasp larvae (did I put one too many eaters of larvae in there, I must proofread). The galls do not do substantial damage to your trees, and there’s really no way to get involved in the crazy gladiator’s pit of nature without screwing things up, SO DON’T SPRAY, just sit back in awe (or take a nap). And empty oak galls actually take in desirable boarders such as lacewing larvae and small spiders, scavenger ants and more beneficial wasps, all feeding on caterpillars and aphids.

Other fascinating factoids:

Oak galls were an important source of dark and permanent ink used for writing for over 12 centuries, and iron gall ink is still used by artists today. Did you know that a pen knife (aka a folding pocket knife) was constructed to make quill pens from feathers, and to periodically shape a new point on the quill as it wears? You cannot use the medieval oak gall recipe for black ink with a metal tip pen because it is too corrosive to metals.

Oak galls have recognized medicinal uses due to the high tannin content (and also used for tanning).

Before his landmark work on human sexuality, Alfred Kinsey was known for his study of gall wasps.

– James

Have you noticed lots of holes and chunks missing from the leaves of your fall veggies like cabbage, kale, broccoli, and cauliflower? These are delicacies for caterpillars! A little snacking is nothing to worry about, but here’s how to prevent a feast!

First, decide for yourself how much caterpillar snacking you can tolerate. If it’s a few holes here and there, you might leave them alone or try to find and relocate them. If you decide it’s time to treat, bacteria is your friend. Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) is a naturally occurring bacteria that targets caterpillars but is safe and harmless for humans, pets, birds, and other wildlife. We carry it in a spray (Captain Jack’s Bt) or a powder form (Dipel Dust) – same active ingredient that works when caterpillars eat it. Some folks prefer the spray because you can spray all over the plant, up under the leaves, etc. Some prefer the dust because it’s easy to sprinkle over the plant. Both work great!

We’re in the dog days of summer right now, but not for long! If you want gorgeous tomatoes this fall, right now’s the time to get started. Depending on the variety, tomatoes take between 60-100 days to produce ripe fruit, which would put us into late October through early December if we start now. Unless you’re growing in a heated greenhouse, you want to harvest your tomatoes before we have chances of cold weather. So, without further ado, here’s the Gill’s formula for fall tomato success!

Start from Seed or Plants

Late August is an exciting time at Gill’s. We’ve received our 2025-2026 veggie seeds, and we’re stocking up on tomato plants too. You have your choice right now – start from seed or start with tomato plants that are ready to go. If you plan to start tomatoes from seed, you need to get them going before the end of August. Sure, starting from seed is more work, but you also have a lot more options, especially for heirloom varieties. We recommend starting seeds indoors or on a shady, protected patio. Try our new Cow Pots + organic Fertilome seed starting soil. Once the seedlings sprout and grow their first true set of leaves, they’re ready to plant outside. Just plant the whole Cow Pot – they’re made of composted cattle manure and will break down and add nutrients to the soil. Or skip the seeds and start growing some tried and true tomato plant varieties now, like Tycoon, Red Snapper, Sun Gold, and the beloved Celebrity.

Prepare Your Soil & Spot

Pick a spot for your tomatoes that gets at least 6 hours of full sun each day. They’ll need it to be able to produce flowers then fruit. If you’re growing in the ground in clay or sandy soil, you’ll need to add some compost to create a better soil structure and add nutrients. Our fav for veggie gardens is Nature’s Blend Compost. Add about 1 bag per 12 sq. ft. of bed space. If you’ve got your own compost pile, use a similar approximate amount. If you’re growing in raised beds or big pots, you can’t go wrong with Gardener’s Magic soil – it’s specially formulated for container gardening with some compost and other nutrients. Just pour and plant!

Prune Up + Plant Deep

Tomatoes are one of the only plants that you can plant deep without suffocating the plant. In fact, tomatoes benefit from being planted deep because they grow new roots off the main stem. So, simply pinch the lower leaves off the stem, leave the main ones up top, dig a deep hole and plant the tomato all the way up to the top leaves. Some gardeners even like to dig a shallow trench and plant tomatoes on their side to let the roots grow down from the stem. Either way, more roots = more fruits!

BioTone + Worm Castings When you Plant

This is truly a winning combo for root health. When you dig your hole, mix in a small handful of Bio-Tone starter fertilizer and a large handful of worm castings when you backfill. The Bio-Tone contains mycorrhizal fungi which form a symbiotic relationship with plant roots and gives you a much more robust root system. Worm castings add refined nutrients, make soil more absorbent, and even helps prevent fungal disease and insects. Think of Bio-Tone and worm castings as superfoods for your plants!

Cage Now, Not Later!

It’s very important to give tomatoes a support structure, whether it’s a tomato cage or a simple trellis system. Either way, the key is to install that support when you plant, not later. That way you can gently train and tie the plant onto the support as it grows, rather than trying to bend and twist a big floppy tomato plant and risk breaking branches. Cage now, not later!

Follow Our Fertilizer Schedule

The most common problem we see with veggie gardens is not enough regular fertilizer to keep them performing their best. Tomato plants use lots of energy to produce fruit, so they absolutely need regular fertilization. Keep it simple and use our tried and true prescription: feed with a good organic granular fertilizer (like Medina Growin Green, Plant Tone, or Rose Glo) on the 1st of the month, then feed with Medina’s liquid Hasta Gro on the 15th. Add reminders or alarms for these dates in your calendar so you don’t forget. If you stick to this schedule, you’ll have lots of tomatoes to enjoy and share.

Treat for Pests + Prevent Fungus

Your 2 main issues to watch out for when growing tomatoes are hungry caterpillars and fungus problems. You can prevent fungus by simply mulching around your tomato plants so wet soil doesn’t splash up onto them when you water. Horticultural cornmeal applied around the base of the plant can help also. For caterpillars, you just need to be vigilant. Inspect your plants often and look for chewed leaves and frass aka black specks of caterpillar poop. If it’s just a couple of caterpillars here and there, you can easily relocate them. If you have an infestation, you can use organic Bt spray or Bt powder to control.

Water Early and Often!

You’ve likely heard us preach about the benefits of watering in the morning vs. the evening. This is especially important for tomatoes. As DeAnna says, you wouldn’t want to run a race all day and only have water at the finish line. Tomatoes need to be well-hydrated in the morning, or they’ll be very unhappy during the hot part of the day. While the weather’s still warm, they will likely need supplemental watering in the afternoon too. Once temps cool down and plants mature, you’ll be able to back off on watering some. Mornings can be hectic – we get it! If you run short on time to water in the morning, consider setting up an automatic soaker hose in your tomato bed. We carry soaker hoses and simple timers that are easy to attach to any hose spigot.