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Plants have thrived through hurricanes and worse for around 500 million years. Most of your plants will come back fine, and for those you lose, something new will grow, with a little help from you.

Don’t worry too much about wind-damaged foliage, it will be replaced by pretty and efficient new leaves. Some plants that have lost the shade from a damaged or destroyed tree or large shrub will suffer from sunburn. Some varieties will grow new and more sun-tolerant leaves, but some plants will never be happy in full sun. These will need to be dug up and transplanted to a shady spot or given away or tossed. If you need help determining which plants will tolerate the new sun and which won’t, bring a sample or photo by the nursery and we will advise you. 

Some tipped over plants can be raised and staked, but some will be too top-heavy and will need cutting back before raising and staking. We have run across some bottlebrush, for example, that required this. Some soft herbaceous plants were really trounced, such as coleus and basil, but if damaged portions are pruned out, they will bounce back for fall. In fact, many perennials benefit from a light pruning in September for a better fall showing. Younger trees with broken branches, or tipped over sideways, should be staked or pruned, and will recover just fine. Larger and older trees are more iffy. Was the tree healthy and vigorous before the storm, or already declining? Is it the right tree for that spot? If not, maybe it’s a good time to change.

Tree Trimming
Image: Texas A&M Forest Service

If you determine the tree should stay but needs damage pruned away, remove large damaged branches with the 3 cut method to avoid stripping bark off the side of the tree. Undercut the branch first, 18″ out from the trunk, followed by cutting down from the top, 20″ out from the trunk, until the branch falls. Then remove the remaining stub to within an inch or two of the trunk. If the tree is leaning, small trees can be pulled upright and secured with 6′ steel t-posts, with the tree tied to the post with a soft material, or wire cushioned with hose, being sure the loop around the tree is large enough not to constrict the growth of the trunk. Larger trees will need 2″x4″ stakes driven into the ground, or maybe even steel earth anchors, like used to tie down sheds or mobile homes. Before lifting the tree up straight, soak the ground around the roots so the roots can slip through the soil back to an upright position instead of being held back and maybe broken off by hard dry soil. Until you get to the process of raising the tree or shrub, don’t keep the roots flooded, but do keep the roots moist, and if small roots are exposed, maybe even cover them with some shade, like burlap.

Be safe, serious injuries occur when ladders and chainsaws are involved. Also be cautious of men knocking on your door and saying they have just trimmed your neighbors trees and if you pay them a down payment, they will go get gas and be right back to trim your trees.

Please come into the store with pictures if you have additional questions. We are there to help.

-James

It seems everywhere I turn I see bugs. Chinch bugs in the grass, worms eating bougainvilleas, scale on irises and lilies, mealy bugs on tropicals.  To spray, or not to spray? That is the question. We need to raise our tolerance of what is acceptable in our landscapes. A few bugs here or there or a little plant damage is all o.k. Did you know that only about 5% of insects are bad? Many insects  are even beneficial.   This fact is the reason you must decide whether or not to spray. Lots of times nature will take care of itself if you wait a few days. Keep your plants as healthy as possible, and you will not have many insect or disease problems.

First, make sure you have the right plant in the right place, proper sun exposure, correct spacing of plants to insure air circulation, regular feeding, mulched beds, watering.  All of these things reduce stress and result in perfect growing conditions for your plants keeping  them happy and healthy. We call it IPM or Integrated Pest Management.  If you do determine you need to treat a problem insect, start with the least toxic approach.

  • Insects and disease go for the weak and stressed plants first. 
  • A few aphids can be controlled with a blast of water.
  • A cluster of mealybugs on the tips of plants can be remedied by pruning and discarding the area.
  • Using Insecticidal Soap, Neem Oil, or Thuricide sprayed on plants with insects is your next approach.
  • Never spray everything just because one plant has a problem.

deannaSo look around your yard; see what’s happening. If you’re not sure whether you have a beneficial or a problem insect, just put a sample in a ziplock bag and bring it to us. We will help identify the bug and tell you if you need a control solution.

-Deanna

Do you have a gardener in your family that you just don’t know what to buy them? Think about a new pair of pruners. Or rose gloves that reach up to your elbows. They’re great for pruning thorny plants like roses, bougainvilleas or pyracantha. We also have moisture meters, rain gauges, outdoor thermometers, candles, windchimes, birdfeeders, hummingbird feeders, and more. We have fruit pickers to help harvest their fruit up high in the tree. How about a tub- trug to hold plant clippings or soil as you work around the yard.

One of my favorite parts of gardening is, accessorizing! We have concrete statues of dogs, cats, pigs, frogs, St Francis and more. We also carry metal yard art from Mexico and Haiti. Beautiful ceramic pottery, fountains and birdbaths. Or for the new gardener, how about the Corpus Christi Garden Book. Still not sure what to buy? How about a gift card to Gills. That way they can shop year-round at both stores and buy what they need when they are ready. I know I would love any of these.

deanna-DeAnna

Do:
  • Sharpen your Garden Tools – mower blades, pruning clippers, loppers, etc.
  • Trim Shade Trees – woody shrubs, including roses
  • Be Armed and Ready – keep a close eye on the weather, be ready to protect tender plants with sheets & blankets, or come see us for N-Sulate Frost Blankets (now $9.99!)

Don’t:

  • Trim Plants that Bloom in Early Spring – like Indian Hawthorne, Primrose Jasmine & Carolina Jessamine
  • Trim Tropicals
deanna-DeAnna 

Valentine’s Day is a time to remember our loved ones with candy and flowers. It also is the perfect time to prune roses. Late January to mid February is the best time. Prune established hybrid teas, removing dead and small twiggy growth, leaving strong healthy canes to a plant height of 18-24 inches. Try to prune to an outward facing bud to maintain spreading, open growth. Prune shrub roses like Knockouts 1/3 to 1/2 the plant height. Do not prune climbers until after the Spring bloom, then removing only the oldest canes and cutting back healthy, vigorous canes no more than 1/3. Remove spent blooms throughout the season on all rose varieties, cutting back to the first 5 leaflet cluster. You can also begin fertilizing your roses in late February with Bayer Systemic Rose and Flower Care, or organically with Maestro Rose Glo. Gill Landscape Nursery stocks disease resistant roses (ask for them), but if you have hybrid teas, as soon as new growth appears you should begin a spray program to control insects and diseases. Bayer 3 in 1 Insect, Disease and Mite Control, takes care of all rose problems. For organic controls, use Neem Oil for insects and disease or Serenade to control diseases. A regular spray program keeps your roses healthy and happy. Remember fungal diseases are always easier to prevent than to cure.