Gill Garden Center + Landscape Co.
Corpus Christi, TX Garden Center
Happy Holidays, gardeners! We hope you’re having fun with family and friends and enjoying this warm weather outdoors. We’re back open regular hours December 26th through December 30th. We’ll be open 9-2 New Year’s Eve and closed New Year’s Day. Cheers to 2025!
Welcome to 2025! It’s time to set our gardening resolutions! What do you hope to learn more about in the garden this year? What new plants are you going to try? What areas are you planning to revamp? January is time to get moving and set yourself up for big success this spring and beyond. Beds need prepping, veggie seeds need starting, citrus trees need feeding, and YES you can get a head start on planting too! Here are our top must-do’s (and don’t do’s!) this month.
Check out our January Garden Guide for more tips and remember that trees, shrubs, and perennials can be planted 12 months out of the year! The only difference is the amount of water they need depending on temperatures and wind!
Let’s start off with the simplest and most effective garden must-do…JUST MULCH! A good 2-3″ deep layer of mulch is our best protection against dry drought conditions and against cold snaps/freezes. Think of mulch as insulation for your plant roots – it helps retain moisture in the soil and it provides a barrier to keep cold air out. Natural mulches also break down over time and add nutrients to your soil. Maintain a good layer of mulch, but don’t pile mulch up around the base of trees and plants. Give your trunks and root flares (where the roots meet the main trunks/stems) a few inches of breathing room for better oxygen exchange and to prevent potential fungal problems.
January is our month to plan and prep for spring. Clean up, remove weeds, and most importantly, prep your garden beds by adding some compost! We love Nature’s Blend Compost for veggie and landscape beds, including raised beds. A good ratio is 1 bag per 12 sq. ft. of bed space. If you make your own compost, that approximate ratio works well. It doesn’t have to be exact. If working out is part of your new year’s resolution, get outside, grab your garden forks or a shovel, and turn some compost into the first few inches of soil – great exercise!
Remember – wait to do any major pruning of most plants until February! We can be tempted to do too much pruning in January, but you don’t want plants to think its time to start putting on new growth since we still have potential for cold snaps. We’re expecting cold weather next week! Even if we do get a cold snap that damages some foliage, wait to prune because that damaged foliage will help insulate against more possible cold weather. We need to tolerate some wintery-looking plants this month.
Ornamental grasses, like Pink Muhly or Purple Fountain grass, are a January exception. They should be cut back this month. Trim them straight across (no cupcakes) 3”-4“ from the ground. Use a bungee cord or piece of rope to gather them up, then cut straight across with your shears – just like the photo above.
Fertilize your citrus trees in January for more blooms, again in May/June for better fruit set, and again in September/October for nutrients. We recommend fertilizing with Espoma Citrus-Tone – all organic and highly effective. Remember to fertilize trees, including citrus, at the drip line. That means spread fertilizer in a circle where the rain naturally drips down from the leaves, not right up against the trunk.
January is time to start tomatoes, kale, chard, onions, carrots, beets, parsley and more from seed. We carry easy seed-starting trays, peat pots, and Espoma Organic Seed Starter soil for starting seeds indoors or on a protected/covered patio. A good rule of thumb is that once the seedlings have made their first true set of leaves, they are ready to be transplanted into a larger container outside or directly into the garden bed.
Check out our full Spring planting guide here.
January is prime time to plant potatoes and onions! We carry Red La Soda and Yukon Gold potatoes because they are better suited for South Texas growing conditions than larger varieties. Watch Matt’s video guide to planting potatoes here!
Plant onions in a row every 3-4″ then thin them by plucking every other green top as they grow. This will allow the onions to grow to full size. Keep in mind that both potatoes and onions need well-drained soil. Great for raised beds and containers!
Generally, most houseplants will need more light and less water this month. A moisture meter will come in handy to be sure you’re not overwatering. Experiment with moving houseplants to sunnier windows, and take them outside for a sunny day or 2. Keep their leaves clean to help them take up sunlight and prevent bad bugs. We like using a very light solution of Neem oil + water to wipe down leaves here at Gill’s.
Current City of Corpus Christi Stage 3 drought rules are very limited. We CAN water vegetables, fruit trees, food-bearing plants, and all potted plants. We CAN also apply for exemptions to the watering rules in order to get new plantings established.
We need to speak up about our water! While we may need to strictly limit spray irrigation of lawns during current drought conditions, we still need to be able to water established landscapes and trees, and we need to be able to water new plantings. We have been in close contact with City leadership to offer suggestions for changing the Stage 3 rules to allow hand watering and the use of drip irrigation. If you’d like to contact the City, we wrote this letter for you to use. Copy it and customize it however you wish. The more gardeners who speak up, the better!
Keep in mind that plants don’t need much water in January, but dry cold fronts, high winds, and low humidity can dry plants quickly. Also, if we expect freezing weather, it’s very important to water deeply before the freeze to insulate roots against cold.
January is time to start veggie seeds for your spring garden! There are few things more rewarding than growing and eating beautiful vegetables all from tiny seeds. Yes, it takes some TLC, but so worth it! Here are our tips for getting started.
You don’t need much! First, containers. We love using these simple seed-starting trays with lids to create a mini greenhouse. Folding plastic take-out containers with lids work well for this too, just make sure you poke some vent holes. We also like using peat pots which you can plant straight into your garden bed once they’re ready. Next, you’ll need a good quality seed starting soil. We use Espoma Organic Seed Starting Mix with great results. Seed starting soil mixes are very light and fluffy to allow tiny roots and sprouts to easily push through. A couple of other things that come in handy are a spray bottle or mister for water, and a popsicle stick. We recently set up a seed starting station here at Gill’s – purchase your seeds and container, and use our soil & supplies at no charge!
A big advantage of growing veggies from seed is that you have so many more options! We just got all our new 2025 seed packets and we’re so excited about new varieties, including Brandywine tomatoes from Southern Exposure Seed, and Cosmic Purple Carrots and Matador spinach from Botanical Interests, all of which are great to start right now. When choosing seeds, think about garden space. The seed packet will tell you the mature size of the plant, and we can help you plan your beds. It’s very important not to overcrowd your veggie garden – plants need to be able to grow to their mature size to produce fruit, and they need space for air flow and oxygen exchange. Also, you don’t want to make it easy for bad bugs to move from plant to plant.
Fill your trays or peat pots with soil and use your spray bottle to get the soil nice and moist before you add your seeds. Since seed-starting soil mixes are so light and fluffy, if you add seeds then water, the seeds tend to float up out of the soil. Instead, add water first, then use your popsicle stick to gently press the seeds into the wet soil. Don’t press the seeds in too deep! Usually, just enough to cover the seeds with soil, but refer to the seed packet for precise depth. Then, choose a sunny window inside or a covered/protected patio to place your seedlings. Once the sprouts grow their first true set of leaves, they’re ready to transplant outside into bigger containers or directly into your garden beds.
Use a mister or your spray bottle to gently water your seedlings every day to keep the soil moist but not disturb the seeds. Once they sprout, continue to keep your soil moist. Once you transplant outside, continue to water every day. When the plants get established in your garden beds, inspect them every day and determine which are thirstier than others. Soaker hoses can be a big help. Just snake them through your veggie beds and turn on the tap or use a timer. When watering by hand, think like a soaker hose – water slowly and gently at soil level. Watering over the top of your plants or splashing soil up onto the plants invites fungal disease and pests. A good mulch layer can help also prevent soil from splashing up onto your plants, plus prevent weeds and help retain moisture. We love pine straw mulch for veggie gardens because its so easy to work with and it does a great job at suppressing weeds.
If you want your veggies to feed you, you gotta feed them! Plants require LOTS of energy to produce fruit. Remember DeAnna’s organic fertilizer schedule: granular Plant Tone on the 1st of the month, followed up by liquid Hasta Gro on the 15th. The granular fertilizer will slowly break down and feed your roots, while the liquid Hasta Gro sprayed over the leaves will make the foliage thick and strong. If you want strong plants and amazing veggie production, follow this schedule!
Good news! We have been working with City of Corpus Christi staff and other local green industry leaders to revise the Drought Contingency Plan, particularly Stage 3 restrictions on most outdoor water use. Thankfully, City leadership has been open to discussing revisions, acknowledging the concern for water shortages as well as the need to keep our city alive and vibrant. As of January 17th, City leadership has agreed to revise the rules and present a new Drought Contingency Plan to City Council for approval. Here’s what you need to know!
Under new proposed Stage 3 rules, hand watering is allowed any day before 10:00 a.m. and after 6:00 p.m., and drip irrigation systems can be used to water landscapes on your designated watering day every other week. We feel very good about these changes – they will allow us all to keep landscapes and trees alive through the drought. The City has also agreed to grant temporary exemptions to watering rules for new plantings for up to 30 days, which will allow homeowners to continue investing in their property. Homeowners should use the City’s form to apply for an exemption to get new landscapes established, then once they’re established, hand watering and drip irrigation will keep them thriving.
The new draft Drought Contingency Plan will be presented at the next City Council meeting on Tuesday, January 28th. We encourage you to contact your City Council members and Mayor Guajardo to express your support for these changes to the Stage 3 watering rules. Better yet, sign up to make public comments at the Council meeting! We plan to speak at the meeting on the 28th, then again at the meeting on February 11th, where Council will vote to adopt the new plan. If the plan is adopted, the new rules will be effective in time for spring!
Since spray irrigation will still be prohibited under new Stage 3 rules, using recycled water is a great option for lawns. The City is currently building a tank farm to hold recycled effluent water which can be hauled and used to water residential lawns and landscapes. Once this water becomes available, Gill’s will provide this service. If you’d like to get on our list for lawn watering, please get in touch!
Here’s to summer garden fun! We’re making the transition to warmer weather with some intermittent rainfall and lots of good energy in the garden. Here are our top priorities this month, including what to plant, how to adjust watering, what to watch out for, and how to keep plant roots cool and happy.
So many of our favorite plants for South Texas don’t just tolerate warm weather, they only begin to thrive and look their best in the summer. Think of blooming perennials like Firebush, Esperanza, and Pride of Barbados for awesome summer impact. Think of big purslane hanging baskets, Gomphrena, and Periwinkles for bursts of bright color. And browse our Texas native plant section for plants and trees that have thrived through hundreds and even thousands of Texas summers. If you’re still wanting to plant food, you can do that too – okra, basil, thyme, watermelon, peppers, black-eyed peas and more should be planted in June.
A good mulch layer (2-3″ deep) has so many benefits. It looks amazing, keeps weeds down, helps retain moisture, adds organic matter to the soil, AND keeps plant roots nice and cool in the summer. Bartlett Tree Research Laboratories shared amazing results with us from a mulch study they conducted in San Antonio. Soil temperatures were measured at 6″ deep (where plant roots live) on a 105 F summer day. Bare soil, 6″ down was 102 F. Soil under grass was 92 F. Soil beneath a 3″ layer of mulch was only 76 F!! Mulch for the win!
We’re not talking about BBQ, although that sounds good too… We’re talking about watering low, as in as in low to the ground to avoid evaporation, and slow as in not with your hose open full-blast. This helps decrease runoff and get more water down to the roots. Consider setting up your own automatic drip irrigation system – they’re easy to DIY and they operate on the low & slow principle. Also, be sure to use the cycle & soak method, which simply means water once, let it soak in for several minutes, then come back and water again. This makes sure you’re pushing water down deep.
Pro tip: Use a moisture meter in your landscape beds and pots! We carry them for around $10 and can show you how easy they are to use. They have a long soil probe that tells you whether you actually have good moisture (or too much) down deep where it’s needed. They’ve saved many plants!
Yes, bad bugs will be around more during the Summer, but don’t treat unless there’s significant damage. We can help identify the pest and if/how to treat. You don’t want to kill too many good bugs while trying to take care of the bad bugs! If you see brown areas in the lawn that are easily pulled up, it’s usually a sign of grubs eating the roots of your grass. You can control grubs with Bonide Insect and Grub Control. Chinch bugs love hot dry areas in lawns. They make the lawn look dried out along sidewalks and pavement. Spot-treat those areas with Cyonara in easy ready-to-spray bottles. For organic control, use Spinosad or Diatomaceous Earth. We’ve also seen a lot more caterpillars than usual this spring. They’re commonly found munching on veggie gardens, but this year we’ve seen them on Gomphrena and Dichondra! Check out these big Sweet Potato Hornworms that Jesse found eating his Dichondra at night! Not too common to see, but it makes sense since dichondra is in the sweet potato family. Just a few caterpillars can be relocated, but if you have a lot destroying your plants, treat with organic Bt in liquid spray or powder form.
We just restocked the greenhouse with all kinds of unique and classic houseplants looking for their forever homes! Time to work on your collection! We can help you determine the best houseplants for different areas and different lighting in your home. Once again – invest in a moisture meter for your houseplants, too. In our experience, the main cause of houseplant death is too much love aka too much water. Keep in mind that houseplants can also be sensitive to chemicals in treated tap water. We use as much A/C condensate, rainwater, and water from our dehumidifier as we can to water houseplants and keep them looking their best here at Gill’s.
How is 2025 halfway over already?! We hope you’re having lots of fun this summer – holidays, BBQs, weekend trips, and garden projects! Here are our top must-do’s to keep your plants healthy and happy in July, including tips for planting, watering, and summer pests to watch out for.
Myth: I’ve heard that you can’t plant in the summer because its too hot… FACT: Of course you can!! You can plant just about anything in our summers, including trees, as long as you have a good plan for watering. In fact, summer is a great time to plant crape myrtles because they’re blooming and you get choose the color IRL! While we’re past the season for spring veggies like tomatoes, there are still plenty of summer veggies like okra, peppers, eggplant, and melons to plant now. If you want your own fresh pumpkins for Halloween, start ’em in July. Plus, now’s a great time to set table for the fall hummingbird migration with their fav blooming perennials like Firebush, Firecracker plant (pictured), native flame Acanthus, and Dicliptera aka Hummingbird Bush. Don’t let any myths discourage your summer gardening!
Proper hydration happens when you get water down to the roots of the plant. This means watering deeply, not more frequently. The key for watering plants, lawns, and trees is long, slow, deep drinks! Encourage those roots to dive deeper for water. Even with recent summer rains (yay!!), continue to watch your watering and maintain that depth moisture. If you notice this summer that you’re having to water your potted plants a lot more often, it could be time to re-pot. As the pot fills up with roots, you end up with less soil and therefore less moisture retention. Obviously we have a lot of potted plants here at Gill’s. We just added several more large rainwater collection tanks to help reduce our dependence on City water. And boy do the plants love rainwater! If you’re interested in a rainwater collection system, Gill’s landscape team can design and install at your home.
This is what a mealybug infestation looks like!Not all bugs are bad, so it’s important to know your bugs before you spray anything, even organics. A few bugs here and there is most likely not cause for alarm. If you do get an infestation, cut the plant back first, give it some fertilizer, then treat for bugs. By pruning first, you won’t have to treat every leaf on the whole plant. We see plants come back better than ever using this method. If you’re not sure about bugs or pruning, we’re here to help. During summer, watch out for mealybugs on plants like Hibiscus and Turk’s Cap, lacebugs on Lantana, and chinch bugs in the lawn – especially near sidewalks and driveways! We’ve got solutions for all of the above.
Be sure to have a trusted plant-sitter come water your plants while you’re away on summer excursions! It’s a good idea to spend a little time showing them how you water. Make them a list, draw them a map, and walk them through it. You know your plants and which ones get tired and thirsty the fastest. We might even be able to help connect you with a trusted plant sitter…
Now’s a great time of year to work on your houseplant jungle. The greenhouse is restocked with all kinds of interesting houseplant choices, including lots of new Bromeliad and Philodendron varieties, like this fernleaf philodendron aka Philodendron tortum which looks like a small palm! Keep in mind that constant A/C indoors will dry out plants. Keep an eye on watering (use a moisture meter) and don’t place houseplants near an A/C vent. You might also try experimenting with a humidifier near your plants to help regulate moisture.
If your houseplants are looking more “meh” than marvelous this summer, you’re not alone. Even indoor plants can suffer during the dog days of summer—despite being pampered with filtered sunlight and sweet Spotify playlists. So what gives? Let’s dig into a few sneaky summertime stressors that could be behind houseplant decline—and how to help them bounce back!
Just because your plants are indoors doesn’t mean they’re immune to the heat. Summer sun streaming through windows can turn your cozy home into a makeshift greenhouse. Even indirect light can become too intense.
What to do:
Keep an eye on plants near south- or west-facing windows.
Use sheer curtains or move light-sensitive plants like ZZ plants and Ferns a few feet back.
Water early in the day and check more often—plants dry out faster in the heat, even though they’re indoors.
Some houseplants are a little… picky. Corpus Christi tap water is treated with chlorine and fluoride—both of which can stress sensitive roots over time. Many houseplants are fine with City water, but others like Calatheas and Peace Lilies can’t handle it very well. Yellowing tips or brown leaf edges could be a clue.
What to do:
Let tap water sit out overnight before watering, so chemicals can dissipate.
Use filtered, distilled, or rainwater for sensitive plants when possible. An excellent and plentiful source of filtered water in the summer is A/C condensate – find a way to catch it! Here at Gill’s, we use a lot of A/C condensate as well as water collected from dehumidifiers.
Speaking of A/C, your plants might not be vibing with your love for cool comfy temps. Sudden drafts, drastic temperature drops, and bone-dry air from constant cooling can seriously mess with their tropical disposition.
What to do:
Avoid placing plants directly in the path of vents.
Group plants together to boost humidity, or use a small humidifier.
Watch for wilting or leaf curl—these could be signs your plant is cold and dry, not necessarily thirsty.
These tiny white fluffballs are a nightmare. Mealybugs hide in leaf joints and suck the sap out of your plants, leaving sticky residue and sad, droopy leaves in their wake.
What to do:
Check leaf undersides and stems often. Look for a nasty, cottony mess.
Spinosad Soap or Neem Oil can be used to kill these pests. Multiple applications may be needed. Thorough coverage is a must, and we recommend spraying once a week for 2-3 weeks to make sure you have killed them all.
If your plant leaves are speckled, dusty, or webby, spider mites may have moved in. These tiny arachnids thrive in dry indoor air—yep, another A/C side effect.
What to do:
Increase humidity around your plants.
Spray leaves (top and bottom) with Spinosad Soap.
Wipe down leaves gently and keep monitoring—mites multiply fast. Repeat applications until spider mites are gone.
Mid-summer is a great time to give your houseplants a little TLC:
Dust their leaves so they can breathe (and photosynthesize!) better.
Trim off dead or yellowing foliage.
Repot if roots are circling or soil is old and compacted. If you notice you’re having to water a lot, it could be a sign that there are more roots in the pot than potting soil – time to repot!
Use a moisture meter! Overwatering has killed more houseplants than underwatering. Use a moisture meter to take away the guesswork.
Show some love and speak kind words—the plants swear they can hear you.
Temperatures don’t feel like it yet, but it’s time to start making the transition into an exciting new fall planting season! There’s a lot to do in August to set yourself up for big garden success this fall and beyond. Here are our top must-do’s!
Check out our August Garden Guide for more tips and remember that trees, shrubs, and perennials can be planted 12 months out of the year!
August is the time to start your fall veggie seeds! Next week, we’ll receive the new 2025-2026 seeds from our favorite seed suppliers, including heirloom vegetables, brand new releases, and wildflower seeds. Try our new Cow Pots or seed starting trays to start seeds indoors this month, move to a covered patio once they sprout, then into your garden beds once they’re robust enough to live outside. This will protect the seedlings and slowly acclimate them to outdoor temps. Our Fall Vegetable Planting Guide provides the specific seed-planting dates to help plan your fall garden. Remember – if you want bountiful fall veggies, you need to get an early start!
Don’t wait until fall arrives to start planting for fall pollinators – start cooking now so their meal will be ready when they arrive! Important fact: birds, bats, bees, butterflies, beetles, and small mammals that pollinate plants are responsible for bringing us one out of every three bites of food worldwide. Plants attract and provide food for them to keep the cycle going. For example – plant Zinnia and sunflower seeds now, and they’ll be ready to feed migrating birds this fall. Plant salvias now, get roots established, and they’ll be gorgeous this fall and covered in hummingbirds, butterflies, and bees. If you want to provide the best benefits for the most pollinators, plant Texas natives!
August is the time to start prepping fall veggie beds! Finish your Summer harvesting, clean out your beds, and pull weeds. To get your soil ready, we recommend mixing Nature’s Blend Compost or Cotton Burr Compost into your soil to replenish nutrients and loosen the soil before planting. About 1 bag per 12 sq. ft. is good. Once prepped, add a thick layer of pine straw or hardwood mulch, which will help retain moisture, keep weeds from sprouting, and keep the soil cooler until you’re ready to plant. As you plan your space, think crop rotation – don’t plant the same veggies in the exact same place you planted them last season, or you encourage pests and diseases.
We’ve been lucky to have some well-timed rain showers this summer, which has created some depth moisture in the soil. Our goal with watering this month should be to maintain it. For lawns and established plants and trees, this means watering less frequently, but watering deeply when you water. New plantings will require water every day for the first couple weeks to get the roots established, but again, think deep drinks so the roots dive deeper. Use a water wand with a cut-off valve to make it easy on you and conserve water. Pro tip: Conserve water by watering at ground level, not spraying from above. This way, water soaks down to the roots rather than evaporating off the leaves.
Proper mulching using natural Hardwood or Pine Straw mulch has big benefits, especially during hot weather. A good 3” deep layer of mulch will keep your plants and the soil moist and cool for longer after you water or after it rains. Not just a little cooler – we’re talking more than 25 degrees cooler!! Cooler soil temps allow plant roots and beneficial microorganisms in the soil to flourish. When mulching, give the main trunks or stems of your plants a little space – mulch 3” deep throughout the bed, but no more than 1” deep right up against the main trunks/stems of plants.
In late summer in South Texas, even if you were watering quite a lot, it would be difficult to keep your lawn perfectly green. If we don’t get much rain this month, and with current watering restrictions in place, our goal shouldn’t be perfect green – our goal should be alive! If you can haul or find someone to haul recycled effluent water to apply to your lawn, you’re in good shape. Applying water once every 2 weeks at a half inch depth is sufficient. Again, don’t expect lush and green, but it will keep your lawn alive. Our lawn watering schedule is currently full, but we may be able to help connect you with others who are providing the service. Also, keep in mind that current watering rules allow you to hand-water your trees. Since trees should be watered at the drip line, watering trees properly can be a way to get some water on the lawn too.
This is also a great time to think about whether you need or want all of your lawn space. Consider reducing lawn space by increasing your planting bed space, adding new planting areas, using native groundcover like frog fruit to replace lawn areas (pictured), or creating space for wildflower seeding – lots of other options that are more beautiful and more beneficial than a traditional lawn.
