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“A cartoon from Punch from 1890: The phylloxera, a true gourmet, finds out the best vineyards and attaches itself to the best wines.”

Wine production seems to have started in the upper regions of the Middle East, i.e. Armenia, Iran, Turkey, and as the ages went by, continued on to Greece and then Rome, in a big way. The major importance of wine to the Romans caused wine production to spread, around the second and first centuries B.C., through their conquered territories of the remainder of Italy, Spain, Portugal, and France, who we now think of as the prime producers of wine. So vineyards and grape production flourished in the region for 2000 years, until the mid to late 1800’s. At that time, a devastating new insect pest showed up, the phylloxera aphid. This dastardly aphid killed an estimated 65% to 90% of grapevines in Europe, and was, and still is, seemingly impossible to control, as it feeds on the roots of Vitis vinifera, the most highly regarded wine grape.

And where did this villainous vine killer come from? America! European botanists had collected American grapevines and brought them back home to their plant collections, not knowing that American vines brought with them the phylloxera aphid. As vineyard after vineyard was wiped out, attempts were made to hybridize the Vitis vinifera with other grape species to produce resistance to the aphid. The American varieties had evolved to tolerate the aphid, but when bred with the vinifera variety, produced a much inferior wine. Enter Thomas Volney Munson.

Transplant Texan Wine Savior, T.V. Munson

T. V. Munson was born in Illinois, and after taking a degree in Kentucky, moved to Nebraska, where he started exploring improvements of grape varieties by hybridization. He soon found that grape growing conditions in Nebraska were less than ideal, and so moved to Denison, Texas, north of Dallas. He theorized that the native grape varieties of Texas might be a good match with the Vitis vinifera preferred in France, as the limey alkaline soils were similar between the two regions. He selected and shipped to France several grape species from Texas, including a Mustang grape collected from Ingleside Texas. Our Texas grapes did not produce a good wine hybrid when crossed with vinifera, but had a vigorous, phylloxera-resistant root stock, which was further hybridized to make it easier to graft on to the vinifera vines. This combination of Texas hybrid root stock grafted to vinifera top proved to be the savior of European wine production, and is still the standard for European vineyards. Accordingly the French government awarded Munson the National Order of the Legion of Honor, for his part in saving the wine industry of France. So the next time you sip an exquisite European vintage, make it a toast to Transplant Texan, T. V. Munson.

-James

There are many different varieties of Crape Myrtles but a limited number that thrive in South Texas. With the proper cultivar and proper placement, they will provide color and form to your landscape for many years. They do love the sun and need a half a day of sunlight or more. All of the below varieties are drought tolerant once established and are mildew resistant. They all bloom clusters of crepe-like blooms.

Our favorites are:

(Listing From Tallest To Shortest)

Basham	up to 30′ tall	lavender-pink blooms
Natchez	up to 25′ tall	white blooms
Arapaho	up to 20′ tall	red blooms with maroon tinged foliage
Red Rocket	up to 15′ tall	ruby red blooms with dark green foliage
Dynamite	up to 15′ tall	fire red blooms
Catawba	up to 15′ tall	purple blooms
Zuni	up to 12′ tall	purple blooms
Tonto	8′-10′ tall	dark red blooms
Hopi	up to 10′ tall	light pink blooms
Ebony Flame	up to 10′ tall	dark foliage with red blooms
Ebony Ivory	up to 10′ tall	dark foliage with white blooms

*Please note – most dwarf varieties do not do well in our area without pampering.

From the above, the Basham Party Pink Crape Myrtle provides the fastest and most shade, growing up to 30′ tall.

When selecting your variety, make sure you give it plenty of space, height and width. As with all trees, trim as needed to eliminate branches from rubbing against each other and prune off lower “twiggy” growth, but do not “top” prune. If you purchase a Crape Myrtle as a young plant, you can select which trunks you want to keep and get rid of the rest to give it the form you want it to have as a mature plant.

It’s a wonder to watch Crape Myrtles go from ordinary to extraordinary in a matter of days as they start blooming in late spring. Look down most neighborhood streets to find a multiple of white, pinks, reds and purples high above homes. Crape Myrtles are a beautiful long-lived addition to your landscape. They are cold hardy, great color for summer, provide fall colored foliage and interesting bark (exfoliating), and drought tolerant once established.

We think Crape Myrtles are a winner for landscapes and will give you years of enjoyment!

-Sally & Debbie

Watering slow and deep but not too often is the key to a strong and deep root system. By contrast, frequent, short watering encourages roots to stay shallow, in a zone that dries out faster. Texas A&M recommends applying one inch of water once a week or less, on your chosen watering day. You can measure this by setting out a rain gauge or a tuna fish can. If you find water running off into the gutter before you get one inch (likely) then you need to break your watering into two or three applications on the same day (Learn more: Cycle Soak Method of Lawn Irrigation) The second watering and third watering will push the water down deeper into the soil, to help grow a deeper root system. Remember, shallow watering every few days forces the roots to rise to the surface where the moisture is. Shallow roots demand more watering and make for a weaker plant.

Newly planted trees, shrubs and grass will require more frequent watering since they do not have an extensive root system. Annual flowers and vegetables require more also due to their limited root system. So start now, and water slow and deep to maintain that beautiful lawn and landscape for the summer with minimal care.

-DeAnna

We have less control over our plants during prolonged periods of rain or flooding than during drought. Unless they are in moveable containers, there is little we can do except wait for the weather to change.

If your soil is waterlogged, chances are good your plants are showing signs of stress. Water logged and flooded soil has insufficient amounts of oxygen in it for the plants roots to take up and release water. Plants may look like they are wilting, but it is not because of too little water, it is because they can no longer access the available water. This leads to root rot and decline.

Signs your plants have been damaged by waterlogged soil include: stunting, yellowing leaves, twisting leaves, dropping leaves, soft spongy areas at the base of the plants, wilting despite plenty of water, roots turning dark with a rotting odor.

Some plants prone to root rot from prolonged wet soil are Rosemary, Esperanza, Cape Honeysuckle, Plumbago, Tomatoes, Peppers, and Texas Sage. Just because a plant shows signs of distress does not mean it will or will not recover.

A few things we can do to help them recover quicker is to poke air holes around the root system of the plant to allow them to dry out faster. If the wilting persists, you can cut the plants back to eliminate some of the foliage since the plant has lost roots. Next, improve drainage in the area by adding expanded shale.

-DeAnna

Last week James and I were visiting some friends of ours, Anita & Rolf Nelson, also in the garden center business. They own Nelson’s Water Gardens in Katy, Texas. Anita reads our blogs and read what we recommended for whitefly.

She shared with me their way of controlling whitefly in the garden, organically. They spread worm castings in late spring at the base of plants that are susceptible to white fly. The digestive system of earthworms produces an enzyme called chitinase, which repels insects. They recommend working into the top few inches of soil and then watering in. Then in the dog days of summer when insects abound, your plants become a repellant to the sucking insects.

Great to know! Next May we’ll post in our monthly to do’s to add worm castings to your soil! Thank you Anita and Rolf!

-Sally

As gardeners, we know you want the most up to date solutions and newest plant varieties that will thrive in our part of South Texas.

That’s why we make a point to attend the Texas Nursery Landscape Association Expo held every August. We have attended for 40 years; since we opened! James Gill served on the education committee for many years, helping to develop an up to date curriculum for those wanting a career in horticulture.

TNLA Expo is a gathering of growers, manufacturers, retailers & landscapers who service the “Green Industry”. There are education classes, keynote speakers, and lots of people like us who love gardening and helping others to enjoy it too! This year, 7 of us attended. We talked to suppliers, found new growers, attended classes and visited with longtime friends.

We are excited about the Texas Superstar tomato called BHN968 or sweet cherry surprise. It’s 4x sweeter than any other cherry tomato! We also found a new tropical fruit supplier that will ship mangos, papaya and other yummy fruit to our area in Spring 2019.

Gardening is ever changing. New plants, better solutions, fresh ideas. It’s about growing. Plants grow & we grow in our knowledge and creativity!

It is our connection and commitment to you!

-Debbie Pinkerton

Growing food is all the trend as farmers markets, farm to table restaurants, and the phrase “locally grown” gives credit that the food will be the freshest available! But to grow your own? Even better!

Fall is about the best time to grow food and especially true if you are new to South Texas gardening. Days are getting shorter, a little cooler (don’t laugh), less bugs, and less problems. Selections are virtually endless. Beans, tomatoes, peppers, broccoli, all kinds of greens, carrots, turnips; and the list goes on! You’ll be amazed at how delicious and easy food gardening can be!

Top to plant now? Tomatoes and peppers. Both of these need the warm days and will appreciate cool nights. There are tons of tomato varieties. Celebrity & Tycoon are favorites for slicing; Sweet 100 & Juliet are delicious cherry tomatoes. The best pepper to plant? You can’t go wrong with a jalapeno or serrano. Good flavor, usually not too hot, & great for salsa. A great way to check how hot a pepper is; cut the top off enough to catch a little of the pepper core. Place the core top on your tongue. You will know how mild or hot it is and how much to use.

Mid-September and it’s time to start planting cool weather veggies like broccoli, cauliflower, carrots, lettuce, cabbage, turnips, beets, spinach, kale, and a garden of culinary herbs. Don’t be afraid to try your hand at planting by seed. Botanical Interest is a fantastic seed company, all non-GMO with great organic varieties.

Do you need a large planting space? Not at all! A 4×8 space with at least half a day sun is plenty for a family of 4. Water troughs and large pots make great planters for food.

Help your soil to help your plants. Adding compost, dried molasses, and organic fertilizer to new and existing garden areas will feed the soil microbes that also feed your plants. Our favorite compost is Natures’ Blend Compost by Back To Nature. If you are planting in containers, use a good potting mix.

Plan to water and fertilize with a good organic fertilizer. We love Medina Hasta Gro, Espoma Plant-Tone, and Bio-Tone fertilizer. Find more details about watering and care of your garden through out the fall season on our website.

The most important part? Have fun gardening. Enjoy your harvest!

-Debbie

What does Xeriscape mean to you? Cactus and rocks? Yes, it could be that, but it can be much more! Texas native plants? Yes, many Texas natives fit a xeriscape, but also plants from Italy (rosemary), Mexico (firecracker plant), Madagascar (periwinkles), and more! Even a lily pond could have a place in a xeriscape.

Xeriscape is planning and constructing an attractive landscape that requires little or no irrigation. So thirstier elements, such as Raleigh St. Augustine lawns, petunias or rosebushes, or that lily pond, can be limited in size, grouped together, used only in high-impact areas of the landscape, and hopefully, watered with “salvaged” water collected from rooftops, patios, air-conditioner condensate, or grey water.

Your xeriscape can be as simple and colorful as cenizo (Texas sage), red yucca, and mesquite trees (for shade and bold form), all from Texas, or a very sophisticated mix of xeric plants from xeric areas around the world combined with flagstones (or repurposed broken concrete), colorful pots, and striking shade structures.

Growing human populations and consequently shrinking water supply mandate reduced water use for our future. We might as well start thinking about Xeriscape and how to design the right landscape that suits us and still uses less water.

-James Gill

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